Fantastic Flowers for Beginners

May signifies the last month of spring and the transition to summer. May is also when your cool weather annuals like, pansies, petunias, snapdragons and others will play out and it's time to replace with heat loving annuals. These plants will grow, bloom and perform throughout the summer and fall until it's time again for the cool weather annuals. Here are the most popular, top performing heat loving annuals for our area: Sun loving summer annuals include: Vinca – Heat and drought tolerant, and offering continual without deadheading, these are a staple summer flowering plant. Vinca do not like cool weather or too much moisture, so be sure to place them in an area that will be well-drained. Read our blog on Vinca here. Zinnia – Zinnias are great plants for butterfly gardeners. They really bring in loads of the hovering beauties into the back yard. Zinnias do require some deadheading to promote rebloom, and the lower foliage in summer can get tired, so use these in the middle or back of a flowerbed. Angelonia – These are sometimes called Summer Snapdragons. Their tall, spiky blooms are surely reminiscent of cool-season snapdragon flowers. Angelonia are heat and disease resistant. The Serena varieties are an LSU Super Plant. Lantana – Like several on this list, Lantana are especially popular with butterfly enthusiasts. Lantana grow in very challenging, poor soils with plenty of sun. Too much shade or too much nitrogen fertilizer may result in of an abundance of leaves but few blooms. Put this one out by the mailbox where you might not always get to it with the hose, and it will appreciate the neglect. Penta – Pentas are my all-time favorite problem-free annual. Heat and drought tolerant, bug and disease-proof, Pentas are not especially fussy about sun or soil, either. They give good rebloom without deadheading, and they are another great nectar plant for pollinators. Strap Leaf Caladiums – Many know caladiums as a great source of color for shady areas, but did you know that several varieties can take full sun? These bold foliage plants always look good, because they do not depend on flowering to look good. See a sales associate to find out how to pick out the varieties that take sun. Sun Coleus – Just like caladiums for sun, many new coleus varieties are true sun-lovers. This is another plant that is always a stunner in the garden, because they get their visual appeal from the leaves, not flowers. Keep coleus well-watered until fully established, and they will be very tough and durable plants after they have spread their roots. Salvia – Annual and perennial salvias alike are true staples of the summer garden. Many get a second wave of heavy blooming from late summer into fall, when more sensitive garden plants are slowing down. Salvias attract another favorite garden visitor – hummingbirds! Bronze Leaf Begonia – Tropical, heat-loving, and drought tolerant, begonias are great garden plants. Did you know that bronze-leaved varieties take full sun? They are very water-wise, and handle drought well, but cannot handle wet soils. Plant them in well-drained beds. Purslane / Portulaca – These two succulent summer annuals are different plants, but their care is very similar. These plants like LOTS of sun and VERY little water. Good to plant in sandy or rocky soils, or great in pots, especially those that don’t get watered often. These plants can survive, and in fact bloom and be healthy, with several weeks without water. Shade loving summer annuals include: Impatiens – Impatiens are a great plant in partly sunny to shady locations that get plenty of moisture. Many folks are opting for the newer New guinea Impatiens for their improved vigor and resistance to fungus. Caladiums – While some types of Caladiums have been proven to endure some sun, all Caladiums do very well in shade. Bold, tropical leaves, in tones of red, pink, white, and green, brighten up the shadiest corners with an uninterrupted show until fall. If plants flower, blooms should be pinched off so the plant can produce more beautiful leaves. Green Leaf Begonia – While impatiens are moisture lovers, begonias can do dry shade very well. The clean green leaves are not fazed by heat, and they plants bloom continuously without additional fertilizer or deadheading. In the right spot, begonias sometimes survive the winter and come back year after year! Torenia – Torenia is also known as wishbone flower. It is a dainty and compact plant, but it puts out loads of blooms even in shade, and it does not slow down with the heat. There are upright and trailing types, but both stay in place well, and do not become lanky or messy. They also do very well in hanging baskets! Shade Coleus – Traditionally, Coleus have been shade plants, and they continue to be one of the most exciting plants to use in less sunny areas of the flower bed. The amount of color choices and leaf types is incredible! There is truly a coleus out there to please everyone. Potato Vine – Potato vine is a plant that can grow well in very challenging conditions. Since the root is a giant tuber, they do not need loads of organic material to put out good growth. I especially like to use it among the roots of large shade trees as a ground cover. The lime green varieties look especially bright and cheerful in shady areas. Lysimachia – Creeping Jenny and its relatives are going to really shine in shady areas, but can take some good sun, too. They make bright, carefree groundcovers, and look especially good in hanging baskets. Creeping Jenny can brighten any planter combo with its vigorous, chartreuse shoots of perfect rounded foliage. Within these categories there are different series and within each series there are different varieties to choose from. When replacing your annuals you should add some fresh soil and a slow release fertilizer. Remember to properly water your annuals until they are established and growing. Please note- All Seasons may or may not have these plants in stock available to purchase at the time you come to purchase these. If you're ever looking for something specific, please call the garden center at 337.264.1418 or send an email question via this link prior to your shopping visit!

One of the most popular annual bedding plants in Louisiana is vinca, or periwinkle. It is well-known for its prolific and long blooming season and is the favored flowering plant of choice for home gardeners and professional landscapers around the state for warm season color. Vinca (Catharanthus roseus) is a heat- and drought-tolerant plant that normally thrives under Louisiana growing conditions. Thirty years ago, periwinkle flower colors were limited to white, white with a red eye and a rosy purple. Breeding work in the 1980s involved crossing Catharanthus roseus with other species to improve the color range, increase blooming and flower size and improve the growth habit. Vincas now come in a plethora of colors, including pink, deep rose, red, scarlet, white, white with a red eye, lavender blue, peach, apricot, orchid, burgundy and many other shades. They generally grow from 10 to 18 inches tall with a spread of about 1 foot, although trailing types spread to about 2 feet. Even with improvements in the plant, a number of diseases still limit vinca performance in Louisiana and other southern states. One of these diseases is known as Phytophthora blight caused by a soil-borne fungal-like microorganism called Phytophthora parasitica. This pathogen has always been present in our soils and can devastate vinca plantings. The disease is favored by warm, wet weather and rapidly spreads during extended periods of rainfall. And compacted soils with poor drainage may predispose roots to Phytophthora infections. The pathogen is responsible for causing root and crown rot, and the affected plants appear blighted. Symptoms on above-ground plant parts appear as water-soaked, greasy lesions on the foliage and on the base of the affected shoots. Individual shoots wilt and weaken. As the disease develops, reddish, dark brown cankers appear on the stems. The pathogen also causes root rot, resulting in the roots shedding their outer layer. Often, sections of the plant wilt and turn brown while other parts remain healthy. A severe attack can essentially wipe out an entire planting. Fungicides for home gardens and commercial landscapes are available to manage Phytophthora blight. In addition to fungicides when the disease is present, good management is essential to combat the disease. If you want to have the best vinca in your landscape, consider these practices. – Select a full-sun planting location with eight hours of direct sun daily. – Prepare the landscape bed to allow for drainage and aeration. Raise the bed at least 6 inches if drainage is questionable. – Plant in soil with a pH level of 5.5. Vincas need acidic soil. – Avoid planting earlier than May. Soil and nighttime temperatures need to be warm prior to planting. May 1 is the recommended planting date. Many times, home gardeners and landscapers plant vinca in landscape beds in late March and April. – Plant so that the top of the root ball is level with or slightly higher than the soil of the bed. Proper spacing also is important because crowded planting limits air circulation and can create conditions more favorable for disease development. Space transplants at least 10-12 inches apart. – Mulch with pine straw to decrease splashing of rainfall and irrigation water from soil to the lower stems and foliage of the plants. However, avoid excessive mulching to prevent continuous wetting of the plant crowns. – Manage irrigation properly. Vinca require minimal irrigation. Avoid overhead irrigation, when practical. When plants make it through the spring and early summer without disease, hold back irrigation or Alternaria leaf spotting – another fungal disease – may develop heading into fall. – Don’t plant vincas in the same bed year after year. – Don’t plant periwinkles in beds where Phytophthora blight has been a problem in the past. There is good news. New vinca varieties are resistant to some diseases. The Cora and Nirvana series are some of the newer vincas that have genetics in the breeding that makes these varieties resistant to Phytophthora blight. The new Valiant series from PanAmerican Seed for 2016 also shows great promise in disease resistance. Article by LSU Ag Center. Visit online here.

Caladiums are an A+ selection for reliable color in areas that get some shade. And one investment can provide years of color. Easy enough for the casual gardener to expect routine success, the caladium’s elegant beauty also makes it a staple in the most accomplished gardener’s landscape. Native to tropical South America, caladiums grow from tubers and thrive in the heat and humidity of our long summers. They are remarkably free of major insect or disease problems. Caladiums (Caladium x hortulanum) are grown for their attractive foliage. The 6-to-12-inch heart-shaped leaves emerge from the ground on arching stems that are generally 1 to 2 feet tall but can grow taller. The foliage may be splashed with combinations of white, pink, rose, red, burgundy, chartreuse or green, often with several colors combining in wonderful patterns. These bright leaves with their bold texture embellish our shady gardens from May until October when the tubers go dormant. Where to plant Caladiums grow best in shade to part shade (two to four hours of direct sun, preferably morning) or bright dappled light. In these conditions, they produce the lushest growth with large, colorful leaves. The caladium plants you purchase at nurseries are usually grown in shady greenhouses, and the foliage will often scorch or burn if you plant them into beds that receive too much direct sun. This often results in brown areas and holes literally burned into the leaves. If the light conditions are appropriate, the new leaves that emerge will be adapted to the increased light and not burn. Some cultivars are more tolerant of sunny conditions and are successful in beds receiving part to full sun (six hours or more of direct sun) as long as they receive adequate irrigation. When grown in full sun, caladiums tend to produce smaller and more brightly colored foliage, and the plants will be shorter. Planting caladiums You can purchase caladiums two different ways. Buying caladium tubers is the most economical way to add caladiums to your landscape. You can buy caladium tubers and plant them directly into well-prepared beds now. Plant the tubers about 2 inches deep and 8 to 12 inches apart. You should see growing points or even pinkish-white sprouts on the knobby side of the tuber. That side is planted up. The smoother side is the bottom of the tuber. Wait until unsprouted tubers have emerged and grown several inches tall before mulching them. Caladiums are also available growing in 4- to 6-inch pots, and they will provide immediate color in the landscape. Growing caladium bulbs should be planted with the top of the root ball level with the soil of the bed. Plant them 8 to 12 inches apart into well-prepared beds, and they will grow larger and more beautiful through the summer. Once growing caladiums are planted, mulch the bed with 2 inches of your favorite mulch and water them in. Keep beds of caladiums well-watered during the summer, especially those receiving lots of sun. Winter care In late September or early October, longer nights and cooler temperatures encourage caladiums to go dormant. But the tubers you plant this summer can be used to grow caladiums next year, either left in the ground or stored and replanted. If the beds where the caladiums are planted will stay relatively undisturbed and if drainage is good and they will not stay too wet during winter, you may simply leave the caladium tubers in the ground. Or you may choose to dig and store them. This is the most reliable way of making sure they grow another year. Dig caladiums when a number of leaves turn yellow and most of the foliage begins to look “tired” and falls over. Use a shovel or a garden fork to lift the tubers, being careful not to damage them. Leaving the foliage attached, shake and brush off most of the soil from the tubers and lay them out in a single layer in a dry location sheltered from rain (in a garage, under a carport). After the foliage becomes tan and papery in appearance, pull it from the tubers and store the tubers in paper bags indoors where temperatures stay around 70 degrees through winter. With poor growing conditions, particularly in areas of heavy shade or sunny, dry locations, the plants will likely produce small, weak tubers that may not return well either left in the ground or dug and stored. Under the right circumstances and with proper care, however, the tubers you plant this year can provide a beautiful display again next year and for years to come.  Article by LSU Ag Center. Visit online here.

Growing hibiscus is an easy way to add a tropical flair to your garden. When you know how to care for hibiscus plants, you will be rewarded with many years of lovely flowers! Here are some tips on how to care for these tropical flowers: Growing Hibiscus in Containers: Many people who are growing a hibiscus plant choose to do so in a container. This allows them to move the hibiscus plant to ideal locations, depending on the time of year. Provide the plants with at least six hours of sunlight, especially if you want to see those lovely blooms. Although warm, humid conditions are ideal for tropical hibiscus, you may want to provide a little afternoon shade when it’s overly hot. Again, containers make this easy to do. Hibiscus plants prefer a cozy fit when growing in a container. This means that they should be slightly root bound in the pot and when you do decide to repot, give the hibiscus only a little bit more room. Always make sure that your growing hibiscus plant has excellent drainage. Hibiscus and Temperature: When you care for a hibiscus, you should remember that hibiscus plants flower best in temperatures between 60-90 F and cannot tolerate temps below 32 degrees F. In the summer, your hibiscus plant can go outside, but once the weather gets cold and we have another freeze, bring it inside protected. Watering Hibiscus: When hibiscus are in their blooming stage, they require large amounts of water. Your hibiscus will need daily watering in warm weather. But once the weather cools, your hibiscus needs far less water, and too much water can kill it. In the winter, water your hibiscus only when the soil is dry to the touch. Fertilizing Hibiscus: A growing hibiscus plant needs lots of nutrients in order to bloom well. In the summer, use a high potassium fertilizer. You can either use a diluted liquid fertilizer one a week, a slow release fertilizer once a month or you can add a high potassium compost to the soil. In the winter, you don’t need to fertilize at all. These are the basics for how to care for hibiscus plants in your garden. They are an easy maintenance, high impact flower that will make a garden in any part of the world look like a tropical paradise. We carry a special Hibiscus fertilizer called HibisGain, that has been developed by South Florida Hibiscus breeders who show their plants in national and international competitions. Always make sure your fertilizer says that it is for hibiscus and tropicals, not an all-purpose fertilizer. FoxFarm Ocean Forest potting soil is excellent for hibiscus, houseplants, and other tropicals. Fafard Ultra Potting Mix is another soil mix formulated especially for hibiscus and other tropical plants. Click here for our blog "Bougainvillea & Hibiscus"

When we hear the word “Celsius” we think of our Fahrenheit temperature scale’s counterpart. When we think of degrees Fahrenheit, we often think of Summer time. Now, we have a new product to associate with summer heat, and that is Celsius, the #1 lawn weed killer for SUMMER. That’s right, this new product will kill 120+ common unwanted weeds in your lawns without burning your grass…in the heat of our 90-degree F+ summer temps! Some of the main highlights we love about this new product are: · Controls common weeds in St. Augustine, Centipede, Bermuda, Zoysia and Buffalo · Broad-spectrum control of grassy weeds, such as crabgrass and broadleaf weeds · Weed growth ceases within hours of application. Note that complete control may require several weeks depending on temperature · Each pack covers 2,000 square feet at the high rate, which is perfect for backpack sprayers All you will need is a single dose of this product to apply the simple application! You can broadcast this over your entire yard (2,000 sq ft) or you can spot treat as needed, such as when you see those pesky clover patches pop up. How do you apply? We always insist on you reading the directions on the product’s package before any application. However, here is a brief guide… Measure your lawn’s square footage first. If it’s not 2,000 sq ft, you can half this product and do it now and again later. Fill a sprayer with water to a known mark as indicated on the packaging. Water your lawn. Spray the product uniformly. Refill if needed as indicted by your sprayer’s capacity. Sit back and know your summer weeds won’t enjoy the summer as much as you will!

Choosing a Container: Virtually any type of clear plastic or glass container will work just fine. Bottles, fish bowls, jars…you name it! There are even special containers built just for terrariums. Your choices are endless. Just make sure that you choose a clear leak-proof container that’s been cleaned with hot, soapy water. Tinted or cloudy glass or plastic will interfere with plant growth by reducing light. Preparation: The next step is to begin building your terrarium. First, place a layer of pea gravel or aquarium rocks in the bottom of your container for drainage. Next, put about ½’’ layer of horticultural charcoal to keep the soil from developing a rotten smell. Over the charcoal, you have the option of placing Sphagnum moss to keep soil from getting into the drainage area. Last you will add about ½’’ of relatively dry soil to your terrarium, dry enough so that it won’t stick to the sides. You might want to add hills or slopes to add interest to your terrarium. The easiest way to add these materials is with a large kitchen spoon. Planting: After the soil, add decorative pieces such as rocks, wood, seashells, or any other small item that won’t be harmful to your plants. Remember to arrange these in the terrarium so that you still have plenty of room for your plants. Now start scooping out the potting holes for your plants. When you insert your plants into the holes, don’t plant them too deep or too shallow. They should sit no lower or higher above the soil line than how they were planted in their original pots. Be sure that you pack the soil firmly around the base of your plants. If you’ve got a fairly deep container, you can use tongs to place your plants into the terrarium. If you’d like, you can add moss and more decorative items to enhance the beauty of your terrarium.  Please do not Disturb: When you build a terrarium, remember that they really do thrive on neglect. There’s no heavy watering necessary at this time, and all you’ll need to do is spray the leaves down with a water bottle, as this is plenty of moisture to settle the soil. Let your terrarium sit until the next day, and check the water at the bottom, making sure that it doesn’t exceed ¼ inch. Spray again and wait until the leaves are completely dry, then place the cover on your terrarium. All that’s left is to sit back and watch your plants flourish in your beautiful, homemade terrarium.

Pollinators play an important role. In fact, they are essential in the eco system surviving. The simple truth is that we can’t live without them! Virtually all of the world’s seed plants need to be pollinated. Let’s celebrate pollinators and help them do their job, which benefits us most of all, by cultivating the specimens they need to thrive. Butterflies: Everyone loves to watch butterflies flutter from flower to flower. It brings us a sense of relaxation to watch a butterfly, and to know we have planted what they love brings accomplishment! The most important thing to remember when creating a butterfly garden is to plant both nectar and host plants. Providing host plants for caterpillars to feed on, you will have a front row seat to the metamorphosis process! The caterpillars will consume the host plants then become a chrysalis before the adult butterfly emerges looking for the nectar plants. Then, the females will lay the eggs to hatch into a caterpillar so the cycle can continue. It’s important to plant host plants and not be discouraged with caterpillars eating the plant. It’s usually only temporary! Some host plant ideas are: Passionflower, Milkweed, Swamp Milkweed, Asters, Butterfly Weed, Dill, Hollyhock, Sassafras, Fennel, etc. Nectar plants for the butterflies serve their purpose, and are beautiful in your space! There are so many choices, and they all pack a pop of color to enjoy all season! A great idea to cover a problem area while luring butterflies to your yard is to buy seeds and sprinkle them in that area. The seeds will germinate and create a lasting love for you, and the butterflies! If you don’t have room for a garden, hanging baskets will do the trick just as nicely. Some great nectar plant ideas in shrubs are: abelias, butterfly bush, honeysuckle, spiraea, etc. Some great nectar plant ideas in perennials are: yarrow, butterfly weed, aster, daisy, cosmos, coneflower, joe-pye weed, sunflowers, salvias etc. Some great nectar plant ideas in annuals are: lantana, zinnia, penta, marigold, verbena, geranium, portulaca, allysum, impatiens, etc. One last important thing to note when planting your butterfly retreat is not to use any pesticides! You may be killing off the very insects you made the garden for. There are natural remedy options to repel harmful insects, like aphids. Talk to us in the Plant Health Care room to help point you in the right direction! Bees: As stated in the introduction, every garden requires pollinators, and bees are among the finest, and hardest working! Without bees, there would be limited flowers and far fewer fruits and vegetables to enjoy. In fact, about 30% of the food we all eat depends on the pollination of bees. Besides planting flowers they enjoy, consider bringing more bees to your garden by providing a safe place for their shelter and to lay their eggs. Pollinator houses are trendy and compact enough to be part of your patio décor. There are many bees that are great pollinators, such as the carpenter, mining, sweat and cellophane bees. However, some of the most well-known and easily identified bees are the honey and bumble bee. Both of these live in social colonies and are cavity nesters. They require a constant supply of floral nectar close to their hive all summer long. Some of the biggest threats to the healthy and continued existence of the honey and bumble bee are their habitat loss. Some great nectar plant ideas in trees and shrubs are: apple, redbud, willow, blackberry, blueberry, etc. Some great nectar plant ideas in perennials are: aster, bee balm, black-eyed Susans, goldenrod, joe-pye weed, penstemon, coneflower, savlias, stonecrop, sunflower, etc. Some great nectar plant ideas in annuals are: lantana, aster, catmint, alyssum, salvias, zinnias, lavender, marigolds, calendula, etc. As with butterflies, keep the bees in your garden by eliminating chemical use, especially when plants are in flower. Hummingbirds: The ruby-throated hummingbirds zip across our Southern skies twice a year. They begin migrating from Mexico during the late winter and early spring to head up north for the summer. Then, once it’s fall again (usually August), they will make their way back south to Mexico. Fun facts about hummingbirds: They are the smallest bird in the world! They can beat their wings about 75 times per second! Wow! They can drink 8x their body weight, and also consume about 500 insects daily! Time to get their feeders and your yard ready to fuel them! Hanging hummingbird feeders with sugar water attracts birds looking for a snack. Most feeders are red since this is the color proven to attract them. We sell safe nectar ready to hang to welcome these winged creatures! It’s important to note that if you’re DIYing your nectar, do not use red dye. Hanging a feeder from February through October is a good plan of action! You can also charm hummingbirds to your yard with a selection of their favorite nectar-producing flowers. They are actually attracted to plants with color, and not plants with scent. Red is their choice in color, but any other bright colors like pink, purple, orange and yellow will also attract them. Another important factor to their favorite plants is the shape. Tubular-shaped flowers accommodate their long, narrow beaks. Some great nectar plant ideas in shrubs are: azaleas, butterfly bush, abelias, bottle brush, etc. Some great nectar plant ideas in vines are: honeysuckle, tangerine beauty crossvine, etc. Some great nectar plant ideas in perennials are: bugleweed, bee balm, cardinal flower, columbine, coral bells, daylily, delphinium, gaura, hollyhock, hosta, phlox, gayfeather, rose mallow, cuphea , salvias, etc. Some great nectar plant ideas in annuals are: fuchsia, penta, geranium, sage, nasturtium, petunia, pineapple sage, red salvia, zinnia, etc. An important note, similar to the butterflies and bees, refrain from using insecticides when attracting hummingbirds. They rely on insects for protein, especially during the summer, so they’ll help to clean out your beds of pests!  For all pollinators, make sure you offer them an available water source, such as a birdbath!

These annuals, perennials, vines and other hardy growers make great companions for a mailbox garden design. We have HUNDREDS of choices for your mailbox garden, both in perennials and annuals. If short evergreen shrubs, like the shi shi camellia, or vining climbers, like the Peggy Martin rose, or a jasmine are your style, we have many selections for you as well. Stroll and shop our now expanded garden center to plant the perfect plants(s). Coreopsis auriculata 'Nana' Also known as tickseed, Coreopsis auriculata is a North America native perennial that grows easily in conditions of full sun and soil with medium moisture. Yellow blooms appear from May to June that attract butterflies and the seeds that are produced resemble ticks, hence the common name tickseed. Purple Homestead Verbena Verbena Canadensis ‘Homestead Purple’ requires full sun for the best results and produces a vivid purple flower. A slender-stemmed perennial verbena in a deep, royal purple bloom cluster typical of verbenas, it can grow to heights of 12 inches and widths of 3 feet and can bloom from late summer to the first frost Rosemary Winter hardy, Rosmarinus officinalis is a herbaceous perennial that grows best in full sun and produces pale blue and white flowers during the bloom season. Fragrant and easy to prune and shape, rosemary is an easy maintenance choice for mailbox areas, herb gardens or patio containers. The best part is being able to cut some off for your favorite recipes while you are checking the mail. Cora Cascade Vinca Vinca is one of the toughest, heat-loving annuals for our climate, and the Cora series has a hearty helping of disease resistance, as well. Nothing will flower as much in full sun and hot conditions as the annual vinca. This flower requires no deadheading, little fertilizer, and should only be watered during drought when well-established. Clematis Clematis is a genus within the buttercup family Ranunculaceae with more than 300 species. Clematis is popular with gardeners for its lovely blooms and ability to grow on walls, fences, mailboxes and other areas to highlight its foliage to best advantage. Yarrow A perennial that thrives in full sun and well drained, low moisture soil, produces sweet & small flowers and fern-like, silvery foliage with a bloom period of June to September. Maiden Grass Miscanthus sinensis is a perennial ornamental grass which can grow from 3 to 6 feet in height and spread as wide, depending on variety. With its graceful plumes, which can range in color from sand-pink to silvery-white, maiden grass makes an appealing living hedge or border. They tolerate tough conditions associated with a roadside planting. Pink muhly grass stays around 3’x3’ and blooms a soft pink cotton-candy-like foliage for interest in fall. For best results, plan on cutting them back to the ground in early spring. Summer Phlox Native to North America, Phlox paniculata is a summer flowering perennial whose mid-summer to mid-fall blooms may vary in color from white to purple. It requires sandy, loamy soil and can take partial shade and partial to full sun. Butterfly Iris Best grown in full sun to part shade, Butterfly Iris is a perennial that can tolerate poor, dry soil due to its thick root system. The blooms are creamy white and yellow flowers on 28 inch stalks and attracts hummingbirds. Please note- All Seasons may or may not have these plants in stock available to purchase at the time you come to purchase these. If you're ever looking for something specific, please call the garden center at 337.264.1418 or send an email question via this link prior to your shopping visit!

Shop for the one you love at the place she loves! We are your Mother's Day Headquarters! From plants to accessories, we have everything your Mom will sure to love! We also offer gift cards in any mount so Mom can pick out her own presents or plants! Mother's Day is May 12. Click here to read Mom Must Haves It's time to change out tired, cool-season annuals with heat-loving summer annuals such as: Angelonia, pentas, portulaca, vinca & much more. Planting tropical sun lovers like hibiscus is ideal now, too. To encourage more rapid re-blooming, pinch off old flowers on bedding plants after their first flower cycle is complete. MAY TO DO LIST: -Plant warm-season bedding plants. Vinca can now be planted for best results! Don’t know which warm-season bedding plants will be best for your area? Come visit us for a wide selection and knowledge to be successful! -To encourage more rapid re-blooming, pinch off old flowers on bedding plants. -It’s a great time to plant a crape myrtle tree for great summer flowering. -Prune & feed azaleas & camellias once their blooming has finished. -Sow seeds for heat-loving annuals and watch them begin to grow! This is a fun kid project, too, once school is out. -Now is the time to plant all kinds of summer-loving vegetables. -Prune & shape all winter-flowering shrubs and vines. -Mulch all garden beds well to help regulate soil temperature, retain moisture, and keep weeds at bay. An excellent mulch to try, in addition to Grade ‘A’ Cypress or Cedar, is pine straw. To effectively suppress weeds, apply mulch 2 inches thick. -When in the garden, wear a wide brim hat and apply sunscreen. -Plants you had indoors for cool weather can now reside outside. -Place houseplant containers in an area that receives bright shade- not direct sun. -Don't forget to fill bird feeders with seed! -Watch for insect problems on roses. Aphids may develop on tender new growth, thrips on flowers and cucumber beetles on foliage. Let us know and we'll set you up with the proper treatment. -After spring bulbs finish flowering, wait until the foliage turns yellow before cutting it off. This is because food is being manufactured and stored for next year’s blooms.