Striking Plants for Winter Color

Click here to see all the anticipated 2025 Specialty Rose Varieties. Please call the Garden Center to check availability.

Roses enhance a garden with beauty & elegance. Now is the perfect time to plant bare root roses so they can come alive in your garden this spring. But, first you need to decide which genre best suits you! Here are the types of roses: Hybrid Teas Roses have been providing colorful displays, rich fragrances and beautiful cut flowers for years. They are exceptionally versatile, useful and will bring years of beauty to your home and garden. These roses are considered the 'Royalty' of the rose family. They are known for their large pointed buds and long, strong stems. Hybrid teas are the classic long stem rose. They are ideal as a cut flower, either alone or in an arrangement. Regular deadheading is recommended for best bloom. Grandifloras They are similar to the hybrid roses and bear large, hybrid-tea like flowers with the same form, but with cluster of blooms on each stem. They are tall, hardy and vigorous. Grandifloras have shorter stems than hybrids, but still make good cut flowers. They can easily be used for creating a mass of color in the landscape. Regular deadheading enhances performance. Floribundas This is now the second largest class of roses. They are shorter-growing than the hybrid teas, and bloom heavily, producing clusters of flowers from June till frost. Their flowers tend to be smaller than hybrid teas. Their lower heights make them ideal for walkways, borders, or in a bed with other roses such as hybrid teas and grandifloras. Periodic trimming keeps them at their best. English These are a cross between old and modern roses popularized by David Austin. Designed to be massed together they offer a charming old-fashioned form and rich fragrance. Miniatures Miniature roses are perfectly scaled, smaller versions of full-sized roses. They are almost always propagated and grown on their own roots, making them extremely winter hardy. They require more frequent watering, as their roots are smaller and not as deep into the soil. A general rule for fertilizing miniatures is a third as much, twice as often. They grow 6"-36" tall, and are ideal in containers, rock gardens or as edging plants. Shrubs This type of rose has flourished in popularity over recent years because of their hardiness and carefree maintenance. Shrub roses bloom profusely during the growing season and require minimal winter protection. Perfect for low borders, hedges and foundation plantings. Occasional trimming in late summer and winter is usually enough for these hardy plants. Flower Carpet Flower Carpet roses are ideal for borders. Be sure to leave sufficient space for these hardy, heavy bloomers. Drift Exceptionally hardy, spreading roses that quickly cover large spaces. Ideal for slopes or anywhere you want low-growing color that's attractive and practically carefree. Climbers Climbers are vigorous and easy to grow. Climbers produce very long canes that need to be anchored to a fence, trellis or other support. Give them plenty of room and fertilizer. A stunning look is planting a climbing rose and a clematis vine together for continuous flowering. Roses have been providing colorful displays, rich fragrances and beautiful cut flowers for years. They are exceptionally versatile, useful and will bring years of beauty to your home and garden. Now, you’ve selected what type is best for you and your garden. Here’s how to plant: Site preparation All roses require full sun (at least 4-6 hours per day). Locations that receive early morning sun offer good protection against mildew. Roses need well-drained soil. Good soil additives, like forest compost and peat, are ideal. Use 1/3 additive and 2/3 soil for your planting bed. Planting The hole should be dug twice as wide and 1 1/2 times as deep as the root ball of the rose. Build a mound of soil in the hole to support roots and to hold the plant at the proper height. The bud level should be at above the soil line to protect from rot. Fill soil around roots and water thoroughly. Apply 2-3 inches of mulch to conserve moisture and prevent weeds. Watering During spring and fall roses should receive 1/2 gallon of water per day and 1 gallon a day during the hot summer days! Water roses well before going into winter. Use of a soaker hose is highly encouraged. These work by getting the water to the plants where they need it most, (the roots) and keeping the foliage as dry as possible. If you do water from above, do so early in the morning so the foliage has a chance to dry. This will discourage fungal diseases. Fertilization Fertilize when roses begin to leaf out in the spring, around March 15, and again in mid-June. Water thoroughly after each fertilization. Do not fertilize after mid- August in this area. Pruning The first major pruning is done in spring when the last hard frost has passed. You will want to remove dead or diseased wood and any weak, damaged, or crossed branches. This should leave you with three to four healthy strong canes pencil size or larger. Make sure all cuts are done on an angle so water will run off canes instead of sitting on top. If you prune well in the spring, you may not have to prune too much the rest of the season. Deadhead hybrid teas, grandifloras and floribundas during the season. This is when you cut a finished bloom 1/4” above a fifth leaf on the outside of the cane. You will want to stop pruning by mid-September. See the 2025 Rose Varieties Here

Keep your plants safe from frost by using winter plant covers. These chill-chasing covers give plants a cozy hideaway that’s warmer than surrounding air. The difference is often only a few degrees, but those degrees make a big difference. Protecting plants from freezes isn’t difficult. One of the most common winter plant covers is a frost blanket or floating row cover that you toss over plants before a freeze arrives. Frost blankets work by excluding cold air and creating an insulating air pocket around plants. Heat from soil, which is warmer than air, is trapped beneath the blanket and held near plants. These cold-defeating fabrics are made from a woven polypropylene that’s lightweight and breathable. The material allows sunlight and water to reach plants, but keeps frost out. Most of these winter plant covers are also UV-stabilized. This means the materials won’t break down quickly when exposed to sunlight and can be used for several growing seasons. Frost blankets come in varying thicknesses. Thicker blankets protect plants to a greater degree than thinner ones. Thicker blankets also exclude more light. Thinner frost blankets typically protect plants to 28° F and permit 70 percent of sunlight to reach plants. Thicker blankets protect plants from 24 to 26° F and allow 30 percent of sunlight to reach plants. It’s most economical to purchase frost blanket rolls 20 to 100 feet long, 6 or 12 feet wide. Cut the fabric into custom sizes, and sew pieces together as needed to form larger blankets. Although frost blankets can lie directly on plants, you’ll get the best protection when you create a framework that holds the winter plant covers above plants. Build a temporary or permanent framework using flexible PVC pipes slid over pieces of rebar driven into the ground. Or drape the blanket over short wire garden fencing. Using materials you have on hand is the secret to creating an inexpensive support system. When using a frost blanket, be sure to anchor the edges to exclude all cold air. Hold edges down with landscape pins, bricks, lumber or other available materials. Or bury edges in a shallow trench, anchoring them with soil.

HAPPY NEW {2025} YEAR! Brighten up the inside with houseplants! Beautiful selections in various shades of green and even colorful plants, like Cordyline, add some much needed winter color into your interior space while CLEANING THE AIR! Come check out our stocked greenhouse for the perfect purifier! Already have houseplants? Turn them halfway, so they don't grow too much toward the light. Want to have a Green Thumb Resolution? Read our blog here! JANUARY TO DO LIST: -Dormant plants are ready to set in the ground, so it's time to plant things like roses, fruit trees and berries. -You can still plant cool season annuals, like the bright-colored pansies, to give all the color you need for winter. -Sow wildflower seeds, especially spring bloomers. Scatter now for a springtime bouquet. -Protect plants from frost by grouping the ones in containers close together on a porch or patio, or move them inside if possible. Cover tender plants that are rooted in the ground. -Turn off irrigation systems for mature landscapes, if not done already. Freshly planted landscapes, should be getting reduced water also, and will probably only need irrigation every 7-14 days, IF adequate precipitation is not received. January is typically rainy enough that no additional irrigation is required. -An exception to the no watering rule is directly before a hard freeze. Any freshly-planted transplant or cold-sensitive plant will be much more prone to freeze damage if it is dry to the point of wilting. It’s always a good idea to give the garden a light watering before sub-freezing temperatures are expected, especially if the weather has been dry. -Remove dead and damaged branches first on roses, then prune the canes back by 1/3 at a 45 degree angle, making cuts just above an outward facing bud. This can be done from now through Valentine's Day! -Remove old flowers from your cool-season bedding plants to extend blooming, and improve flower showing. -Prune summer flowering shrubs such as crape myrtles, althea and oleander. -Smother over-wintering pests by spraying with a dormant oil. Check the undersides of leaves on evergreen plants such as camellia, holly, and magnolia, and spray accordingly.

When we think of resolutions for 2025, we immediately think of losing weight, being more organized; or quitting smoking. Why not make a resolution for better gardening/better garden planning, attract pollinators, grow for cut flowers in your home, grow to eat or cook with herbs, record keeping, getting the kids to plant and care for edibles or flowers, etc.? Here are some ideas to get the ground broken: 1. Resolve to not blame yourself for gardening failures last year. Try again and learn from experience! Call on us to help ensure your success! 2. Resolve not to be afraid to ask questions. How else can you learn? Take advantage of us being here for you; we're happy to help you through to gardening success. 3. Resolve to try new plants. Try a new growing style or a completely new crop of vegetable. Garden out of your comfort zone! We always stock interesting plants year-round to keep you garden interesting (or edible!) When the weather is too cold to venture outside, plan your garden from your sofa. Search our online database of plants here via our Plant Finder tool, and email us your list. Here is a link to the Plant Finder. 4. Resolve to share your passion for gardening and landscaping. Be a mentor for someone else. Wouldn't it be amazing to be the reason your neighbor plants a window box for the first time? Perhaps you could even become a Louisiana Master Gardener! 5. Resolve to try a new trend. Here is a list to some of this year’s gardening trends. You can try interior plants or plant things with bold foliage. 6. Resolve to embrace nature and garden for the birds, bees, butterflies. Plan flowers and vegetables with them in mind, sit back and enjoy the show! 7. Resolve to invest in nice pottery pieces, and change out plants seasonally for a fresh new look all year. 8. Resolve to ENJOY your garden. Take a stroll each morning or evening, cut flowers and stick them in a vase to bring indoors. Take photos to print and hang around the house. Host your children’s or grandchildren’s birthday party or graduation. 9. Resolve to spend more time outside. Relax on a nice bench, or hang a swing or hammock. Create a shady area to be comfortable in summertime by planting a shade tree or building a small pergola. Put together a plan for a revised porch or complete outdoor living environment. We offer FREE consultations to design your new backyard that will melt your stress in 2025.

If you’ve noticed the sudden explosion of beautiful rose-pink flowers dotting the landscapes these past few weeks, you have witnessed one of the top-performing shrubs for Louisiana landscapes: ShiShi Gashira. Click Here to View the Shi Shi Camellia on the Plant Finder. This plant is often listed as Camellia sasanqua in the trade, but it is actually part of the Camellia hiemalis species. Named a Louisiana Super Plant in the fall of 2010, ShiShi Gashira has long been an outstanding shrub for the landscape, and its history goes back hundreds of years. According to the American Camellia Society, ShiShi Gashira originated in Ikeda City, Japan, where it was first mentioned in recorded history in 1894. It was featured in a nursery catalog as early as 1935. This shrub has been around for a long time, and its reliable beauty is why it is such a staple in the landscape. This evergreen, dwarf shrub has a profusion of rose-pink, semi-double blooms with golden-yellow centers on stems with dark green, glossy foliage in late fall through early winter. ShiShi Gashira makes an excellent selection as a foundation planting around houses because of its gorgeous green foliage that remains year-round. The winter bloom time brings beautiful color to the landscape as many of our other landscape plants are going dormant. ShiShi Gashira camellia shrubs can be grown as a focal piece of the landscape, planted en masse to create a stunning splash of color or grown closely together to create a colorful low hedge. They have a unique weeping form that can be used to create a beautiful backdrop or winter woodland garden setting. ShiShi Gashira grows at a moderate pace, reaching a mature size of 4 to 5 feet tall and 6 to 8 feet wide. Older plantings — such as the specimens at the J.C. Miller horticulture building on the LSU campus — can reach heights of 6 or more feet. In general, camellias are a slow-growing shrub best suited for USDA hardiness zones 7 to 10. Unlike the traditional camellias from the Camellia japonica species that require filtered sun, ShiShi Gashiras grow well in full sun. Camellias prefer well-drained, acidic soils with a pH between 5.0 and 6.0. They pair well with companion plants that also prefer more acidic soils such as azaleas, Japanese maples, lily of the valley (pieris), rhododendrons and hydrangeas. You’ll often find camellias as an understory to pine trees, which thrive in acidic soils. In south Louisiana, alkaline soils can cause problems. In north Louisiana, flower buds are often damaged by colder temperatures. It is important to maintain a 2-to-3-inch layer of mulch year-round to prevent weeds, provide organic matter, help retain moisture and protected roots from intense summer heat. Water regularly when the top 3 inches of soil is dry. Older, established plants can live off rainfall and are a great deal more tolerant of full sun and drying winds. New plantings should be watered regularly, and one should consider installing irrigation. Younger plants are less tolerant of sun and winds. Fertilize with an azalea-camellia fertilizer or a complete fertilizer such as 13-13-13 in late winter before new growth begins. Camellias, like most flowering shrubs, should be pruned immediately after they have finished blooming. This allows the shrub time to form new growth and flower buds before the next cycle of bloom. Pruning does not have to be done annually, just as needed. While camellias don’t have any major disease problems, tea scale is a common insect pest of flowering camellias. Scales are small insects that attach themselves to the leaves, mainly at the midrib of the leaf, and extract plant juices. In the spring, the next generation of scales hatch from their eggs. Known as crawlers, these young scales eventually attach themselves to the undersides of leaves. Adult scales are very resistant to insecticides. Treat early in the crawler stage. Apply insecticides so that they cover the bottom surface of the leaves. Repeat treatments may be needed with heavy infestations. Light to moderate infestations can be treated with oil sprays when temperatures are cool so as not to burn the plants. It may take two to three years to bring heavy infestation under control. Every landscape should feature a camellia of some sort (in my humble opinion). There is no limit to the opportunities, with more than 200 species and 20,000 varieties of camellias available. Camellia flowers come in all sorts of colors from white, red, pink and variegated varieties with several different flower forms. Individual blooms are relatively large — up to 5 inches across — and come in many forms: single, semi-double, formal double, peony, anemone and rose forms. The blooming opportunities seem endless, and they are a wonderful cut flower to be enjoyed indoors and shared with loved ones. Article by LSU Ag Center. Visit online here.

Gardening has always been a popular pastime, and a healthy habit for many. After Covid, gardening grew! People turned to houseplants for air health, homemade gardens for healthy eating, landscape and flower-bed projects that always stayed in the distance prior to the pandemic, and kids became more involved since it was a fun way to stay home. The trend has continued, and this year we anticipate more people to DIG IT! Interior Plants to Clean the Air Interior plants benefit your indoor air quality, including purifying the air, as well as boost your mood. Gone are the trends for artificial dust-covered ferns on the bathroom windowsill, and in are English Ivy, which is an air purifier plant and ideal for the germs covered on bathroom counters. Clean Lines Landscaping The English Garden look with a clean line of boxwoods as a front landscape is trending big this year- especially when a lot of homes are white and the dark green foliage looks excellent as a contrast. There is a new, more disease-resistant boxwood variety that we are excited to have here now for you to accomplish the trending look: Sprinter Boxwood. Learn more here https://plants.buyallseasons.com/12250004/Plant/23767 Growing Food in your Kitchen Kitchen counters are being decluttered of appliances and replaced with containers of herbs, lettuce bowls and any other greens we home chefs like to add in meals. Even in kitchens lacking adequate sunlight, a grow light can easily give your select flavorful plants the right nutrients they need to thrive. Vitamin rich micro greens and medicinal herbs are being grown with ease. Just plant, pick and add to your plate! Drought-Tolerate Plants While cacti and succulents are trendy additions to a low-water garden, the options don’t stop there! If you want to plant some things that can take time without water, there are other selections with lush, leafy foliage and vibrant blooms, such as: black eye usan, lantana, some grasses, lavender, purslane, yarrow and more! Golden Tones Gold is the new black. Gold or yellow foliage in plants are gaining popularity. For outdoors, the Sunshine Ligustrum keeps trending for those who enjoy a bold yellow evergreen foliage alongside the traditional greens. Rising sun redbud has yellow leaves which change to shades of orange in fall that is simply stunning in a front or backyard. For indoors, Neon Pothos and other gold-tone plants brighten up the otherwise dim spaces inside your home. Planting an Evergreen Fence Line Planting tall and bushy evergreen shrubs like Sweet Viburnum, Sweet Olive and Little Gem Magnolias give a boundary easier on the eyes then fence boards, which bring your mind at ease in nature. Many people put up a fence and plant their natural border along the fence to give the look while still keeping the puppy contained! Pollinator & Wildlife Friendly Gardens Planting a space dedicated to attracting butterflies, bees and birds have been on many people’s “To Do List.” We always have customers wanting to know what attracts pollinators. The added benefit are these plants provide lots of color to an area so you and a feathered friend will enjoy! Also on the rise are the beneficial insect homes for butterflies, lady bugs and bees. With the honey bee reaching the endangered animal list, alternate pollinators are more important than ever. Plant flowers they like to attract them and then offer them a home. Your garden will reward you. Bold Foliage Expect plants with big, bold, and unique foliage to be the talk of conversation this year. This trend owes a lot to the growing popularity of the Monstera deliciosa, “Swiss Cheese Plant” which has eye-catching natural leaf holes that make your house guests always ask what it is. This year, the likes of banana plants, birds of paradise and other bold-leaf statement makers are the next “It Plants.” Mounted Plants Saving space is an important consideration when figuring out where to put new plants. Why not hang them on the wall? Although mounted plants are becoming more and more common, make sure to pick varieties that don’t need to be rooted in soil. Native Plants Louisiana has vibrant native plants to offer, and planting them has a built in success rate since they naturally thrive in our unique climate. Consider the purple Louisiana Iris for areas that tend to stay soggy in your yard, or the Henry Garnet Sweetspire to attract butterflies. Growing Edibles in Containers We love the farm-to-table trend, and many gardeners still plant in-ground vegetable beds and have an orchard of citrus and fruit trees. However, a trend we’re seeing is people wanting to know what they can plant that’s edible in a container. Something to know before you grow is the container you are choosing needs to be at least twice the size of the plant you are choosing. There are many options- from lemons to blueberries- and we can share with you all the details when you come into the garden center to DIG IT.

Spring Spring is the season when a lawn really needs some tender loving care as temperatures rise and the grass starts to grow, increasing its reliance on water and fertilizer. Spring : Lay Sod and Sow Seed Early spring is a good time for laying turf because the risk of frost is lower, making the soil more workable. Spring is also the ideal time for sowing seed as the soil warms up and rainy days speed germination. Spring: Fertilize A spring feed is essential to keep the lawn looking green. There are many pre-packaged feeds available. Use a Southern lawn fertilizer. Spring : Water, If Necessary Toward the end of spring it may be necessary to water occasionally if the last few months have been dry. Spring: Mow Regularly Cut the grass once a week, ensuring that the mower is raised to its highest setting for the first few cuts. St. Augustine grass likes to be cut to around 3’’ tall. If lawns are cut any shorter, it causes stress to the grass. Spring: Scarify to Remove Thatch Lightly scarify the lawn, using a spring-tined rake or a mechanical scarifier to remove dead grass, also known as thatch. Spring: Apply Products Use products like 2-4D or MSM Turf in cooler spring temperatures to get rid of pesky weeds in the lawn. Spring/Fall: Eliminate Weeds Remove pernicious weeds, such as dandelions, by digging them out of the ground, taking care to remove the whole root. Others, such as speedwell, clovers and daisies, usually need spraying to remove them; however, this should be avoided during periods of drought. * See note above about what products to use. Summer Summer is the period when grass is at its most stressed, which means that some lawn care techniques, such as scarifying or aerating, should be avoided in periods of drought. Summer: Water To keep the lawn looking green during a dry summer, it may be necessary to water it either with an irrigation system or manually with a garden hose or sprinkler. However, lawns can recover quickly from drought, so to conserve water, try to avoid watering except in extreme conditions. Summer: Mow When Needed Lawns will need mowing once or twice a week, although this should be stopped during extremely dry periods, and never scalp your grass to the ground. Fall Autumn is the key season for lawn renovations. Fall care will help to ensure that the grass survives the low temperatures of winter. It will also help the lawn to recover from heavy usage during spring and summer. Fall: Remove Leaves Once you have raked up fallen leaves, shred them using a rotary mower then add them to the compost. Fall: Compost Leaves Leaves that fall onto the lawn must be raked up and removed to prevent the lawn from dying back due to lack of light. However, the fallen leaves can easily be converted into a rich, nutritious leaf mold that's an excellent soil conditioner for shade-loving plants in beds and is also a great addition to potting soil mixes. Fall: Winterizer Whereas spring feeds are high in nitrogen to encourage the lawn to grow, the key ingredient in fall fertilizer mixes is potassium because this encourages strong growth and will toughen up the grass for winter. Fall: Lay Sod and Sow Seed This is a good time to lay turf or seed the lawn since the soil will be warm. This should also allow enough time for the lawn to establish itself before the onset of winter. Patches can be returfed, and hollows and bumps smoothed out. Small, bare patches are best covered by sowing grass seed. Fall: Scarify to Remove Thatch Use a spring-tined rake or a mechanical scarifier to rip the thatch out of the lawn. Scarify in two directions, the second time deeper than the first; this scarification should be more vigorous than the spring scarification. Rake up all the removed thatch and add it to the compost heap. Winter There is little to do with the lawn during winter while grass is dormant. If possible, avoid walking on it during frosty periods since this can leave black marks where the grass will eventually die back. Winter: Clear Any Remaining Leaves In mild conditions any remaining fallen leaves should be removed because they block out the light, killing the lawn. Leaves can be sucked up with a mower or raked up and added to the compost heap.  Aerate- Once every 3-4 years in early Spring or Late Fall Use a pitchfork or aerator to spike the lawn, this allows air to circulate to the grass roots and breaks up compacted soil.

Expected cold weather often brings concern about protecting landscape plants during frosts and freezes. The best approach to protecting plants in winter is to pay attention to the weather forecasts and try to know a couple days ahead of time when a freeze is approaching. When preparing for colder temperatures, it’s important to keep in mind frosts and freezes are different. And weather conditions prior to a freeze or frost play a role in how these temperatures affect plants. If the first cold event is a freeze, landscape plants will suffer more damage. If several cold fronts move through the state and produce several frosts prior to a freeze, we will see less negative impact to plants that normally show damage. To prepare plants for a freeze, thoroughly water them if the soil is dry. This is especially important for container-grown plants. Shrubs in landscape beds also can be helped with irrigation prior to a freeze. It’s best, however, to make sure your shrubs received adequate irrigation or rain throughout fall. Strong, dry winds that frequently accompany cold fronts may cause damage by drying plants out, and watering helps to prevent this. Wetting plant leaves before a freeze does not, however, provide any cold protection. If cold weather is in the forecast, move all tender plants in containers and hanging baskets into buildings where the temperature will stay above freezing. If this is not possible, group container plants in a protected area, like the inside corner of a covered patio, and cover them with plastic. For plants growing in the ground, mulch them with a loose, dry material such as pine straw or leaves. Mulches will only protect what they cover and are best used to protect below-ground parts and crowns. Mulches also may be used to completely cover low-growing plants to a depth of 4 to 6 inches. But don’t leave a complete cover of mulch on for more than three or four days. Larger plants can be protected by creating a simple structure and covering it with fabric or plastic. The structure keeps the cover from touching the foliage, preventing broken branches and improving cold protection. It doesn’t need be anything more elaborate than driving three stakes slightly taller than the plant into the ground. The cover should extend to the ground and be sealed with soil, stones or bricks. Plastic covers should be vented or removed on sunny, warm days. For severe freezes when temperatures dip into the teens, providing a heat source under the covering helps. A safe, easy way to do this is to generously wrap or drape the plant with small outdoor Christmas lights. The lights provide heat but do not get hot enough to burn the plant or cover. Be careful and use only outdoor extension cords and sockets. If necessary, you may prune a large plant to make its size more practical to cover. Keep in mind that your cool-season bedding plants are adapted to the normal cold winter temperatures, so cold protection typically is not needed. Article by LSU Ag Center. Visit Here.