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Tips for Planting Bulbs

Oct 27, 2023

Bulbs in Bulk- When purchasing bulbs in bulk, check the quality to make sure the bulbs are firm and not moldy or squishy.


Full Sun- For hyacinths, choose a site that gets full sun, though most daffodils can tolerate part shade.


Good Soil- Make sure soil is rich in organic matter and well drained because bulbs are highly susceptible to rot.


Make Them Pop- Give bulbs a dark green backdrop, such as an evergreen hedge, for making their colors pop.


Plant in Masses- Plant bulbs en masse, not in small clusters, to create the biggest impact.


Sweeps of Color- Plant in sweeping drifts of color, not in uniform rows, for a bigger visual punch.


New Heights- Consider hillsides for taking advantage of varying heights of flowers, making a planting bed seem larger.


Color Block- For the boldest effect, plant in masses of one color -- and one that complements adjacent plantings of spring annuals or blooming shrubs and trees.


Planting Bulbs- Save time – and your back – by placing bulbs, tip end up, on top of the planting bed, then cover them with a layer of several inches of soil, instead of digging individual holes for bulbs. Don’t worry if the bulbs tip over; they will work themselves upright.


Extend Growth- Extend the bulb bloom season by combining varieties that bloom early, mid- and late spring.


Contrasting Colors- Under plant beds of annuals, such as pansies or violas, with bulbs to create a complementary-color foil and extend the bloom season.


Mix Flowers- Combine container gardens of fall and winter annuals with bulbs for surprise additions next spring.


Avoid Mulch- Don’t mulch over bulb plantings because that layer of insulation withholds extra moisture in the soil and could cause bulbs to rot.


Zinnia
26 Mar, 2024
Want a showy garden but on a budget? Annuals will give you loads of color for one season, and now we are in Spring through Summer. Perennials will last 2-3, sometimes more seasons with an “intermission” of sorts usually in the fall-winter months. Check out these impressive and inexpensive blooms for both annual and perennial choices. We have LOADS more available, so DIG gardening and shop here this Spring! Click here for blog on differences between an Annual and a Perennial. Celosia (Annual) This classic cutting-garden annual comes in shapes and sizes that most people have never even tried. There are the brainy-looking “crested” celosia, soft plumed varieties, and fluffy arrow-shaped types. All are superb for adding texture in the border, in a container or the vase. Monarda/Bee Balm (Perennial) If you have a big space to fill, bee balm will “bee” all the buzz. In most gardens, it spreads vigorously but not aggressively, making a towering clump of spiky crimson blooms that draw hummingbirds, bees and butterflies. Chances are, you’ll be attracted to the fresh, minty scent as well — you can make a brightly flavored tea from the flowers and leaves. Zinnia (Annual) Zinnias are a “must-have” flower, easy to grow and impossibly cheerful. All spring & summer, you’ll be blown away by a rainbow of color that blooms its brains out. Flowers attract butterflies, and make excellent cut flower arrangements! Salvias (Perennial) There are hundreds of varieties of salvias in pinks, purples, whites, blues, and reds, which make a statement in any flowerbed, or container. The bees, butterflies and hummingbirds can’t resist their constant flower spikes of densely packed tubular-shaped flowers. Penta (Annual) Pentas bloom non-stop throughout our hot summer, and what’s not to love about that? To add to their charm, their blooms are shaped like a five-pointed star. These clusters of color are also an attractor for pollinators. Whether you plant one color in mass as a border for a landscape, or mix the colors in a container garden, you will get pop after pop of color! Black-Eyed Susans (Perennial) These bright yellow, daisy-like flowers with dark centers, which gives them their name, bloom constantly in spring-summer. Each flowers is 2-3 inches white, and will sit upon 1-2’ tall stems. They attract birds and butterflies, and brings the trendy wildflower look to a flowerbed or container garden.
Must have plants
21 Mar, 2024
We all love when spring springs to life! The flower and shrub selections are endless- with all sizes, textures and colors that vibrate with the season. We invite you to stroll the garden center and see the wide range available. We put a list together of our “20 must haves” that we know you’ll dig this Spring! Little Henry Sweetspire: Let’s kick it off with this intriguing native to Louisiana! This pollinator-friendly shrub has lightly scented, pure white flowers that resemble a caterpillar. After flowering in Spring, its green summer foliage will change to oranges and reds to match the fall season. It enjoys full-sun and a bonus to being a native, prefers moist soils, while tolerating wet conditions. Cajun Hibiscus: These locally-grown favorites are packed with Pop and Pizazz, much like us Cajuns! The blooms are stunning, with many being two-toned in color, double blooms, ruffled or even a combination of the three! Large, evergreen leaves match the large, sometimes 5’’ across flowers, all with names we can appreciate like the “Bayou Rose,” “Creole Lady” or “Cest Bon!” Snow Globe Gardenia: Despite the word “snow” in its name, this gardenia blooms all spring throughout summer. There is low to no maintenance required for this beautiful landscape or patio star that only reaches about 18-20’’ tall and wide. We all love the gardenia’s fragrance, but this one has a sweet & small daisy-like look to pair with its tiny evergreen leaves. Pro tip: to maximize bloom, trim lightly just after the first blooms have finished. NonStop Begonias: Are they begonias or roses?! These are begonias, but they look like sweet roses! This Non-Stop variety is given its name due to its vigorous growth habit, bearing masses of pretty rose-like flowers in a range of colors including red, yellow, white, pink and even an orange/coral tone. It’s a perfect variety for something interesting in partial shade/sun containers! Shoal Creek Chaste Tree/Vitex: This noteworthy tree presents a stunning show of 12-inch long, fragrant, blue-violet flowers beginning in summer and lasting through fall. These blooms attract scores of butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds during their mid-August migration. It’s a fast-growing tree, reaching a mature size of 4-15’ in the full sun, is low-maintenance and does not require pruning. Summer Jewel Pink Salvia: This “jewel” delivers award-winning blooms from spring through fall. This unstoppable, super-quick hummingbird sage is out to transform your sunny annual bed and best containers into a haven for butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds. The blush-pink blooms begin in late spring and don't think about quitting until early fall, so get your camera and vases ready. Clematis: Every flower gardener should know the pleasure of growing clematis. If you already have one in your garden, you're probably scheming about how to squeeze in another! New to clematis? It’s easy to grow with many varieties of out of this world blooms, and is the most stunning climber we’ve ever known! Coleus: Who says flowers can have all the fun with color? These annuals are grown for their foliage, but their foliage is packed with POP! Coleus varieties number in the hundreds and each has a unique color and pattern to leaves that look amazing as a border plant or mixed in container gardens. Try one with lime green coloring planted next to one with magenta, green, and pink in an eye-catching pattern. Coleus is an excellent choice for shade areas, giving a dark area lots of color without the need for flowers! Double Play Candy Corn Spirea: Your search for truly colorful landscape plants ends here! The show starts in early spring when the new growth emerges bright candy apple red. As it matures, it turns pineapple yellow, and the new growth continues to emerge bright orange all season. Top it off with dark purple flowers in late spring/early summer, and you've got a display you really have to see to believe. Cuphea Honeybells: Massive flower power in a hearty little plant, 'Honeybells' shrugs off high heat and continues in bloom all summer. It requires little in the way of care, just fertilize and water regularly. Best as garden edging and planted in pots and window boxes, since it is a trailing plant! Also check out the Firecracker/Cigar Plant (Cuphea Ignea) has orange tubular flowers with red overtones and hot pink throats along the branches from early spring to late winter, which are interesting on close inspection. Reaching about 3’ x 3’, hummingbirds are attracted to their color and shape! Another Cuphea not to miss is the Funny Face variety, which has trumpet blooms resembling two eyes and a tongue sticking out! White Shi Shi Camellia: The pink shi shi camellias are a staple in landscapes around town. They are small, compact, beautiful evergreen bloomers that pop in the cool season. Now, they are available in white! This low growing evergreen with the same compact 3-4’ x 3-4’ offers porcelain-white, formal double blooms at a time of year when fewer trees and shrubs are blooming. Baby Cakes Blackberry: Spring just got “berry” sweet! The Baby Cakes® is a dwarf, thornless blackberry perfect for patio pots with its compact habit (rounded/ non-vining) and reaching 3-4’ tall.. In summer, large, classic and sweet tasting berries present on the plant in a fireworks-like spray of fruit. It’s even likely that this blackberry will produce twice in one season (summer and fall) when enjoying full sun! Touch of Gold Holly: This is a four-season stunner from the Southern Living Collection. Its golden foliage illuminates in your landscape, while providing structure, the dazzling color and visual interest. It loves full sun, and requires NO pruning! Another plus is that it is a dwarf grower, only reaching 2’ tall x 4’ wide. It’s an excellent choice for an area that needs a layer of short plants with color and low maintenance! Specialty Roses: Roses in white, red, purple (yes! Check out the Heirloom) and shades of pink are always stunning in a garden or even cut flower arrangement. To take it up a notch, specialty roses like the Judy Garland, Pumpkin Patch, Wild Blue Yonder, Marilyn Monroe, Parade Day and George Burns (to name a few) give a POP and punch of unique color to a rose garden! SunPatiens : Continuous color in both sun and shade! These low-growing, bright bloomers are ideal in pots, baskets and landscapes as border plants! They don’t just tolerate full sun and high temperatures; they thrive in it. They’re the ideal plant for worry-free color; sun or shade, rain or shine, spring through fall. Lime Sizzler Firebush: A hummingbird attractor, Lime Sizzler™ Firebush features showy cymes of scarlet tubular flowers with orange overtones at the ends of the branches from late spring to mid-fall. It has attractive light green-variegated yellow foliage with hints of peach which emerges coppery-bronze in spring. The pointy leaves are highly ornamental and remain yellow throughout the winter. Chinese Fringetree: The strikingly beautiful Chinese Fringetree is clothed in stunning panicles of fragrant white flowers rising above the foliage in late spring. It has forest green foliage throughout the season. The glossy narrow leaves turn yellow in fall. Peggy Martin Rose: This rose is a survivor. It’s also known as the “Katrina Rose” because it survived being submerged for 2 weeks after Hurricane Katrina. It’s actually an unnamed rose, but later named after the New Orleans gardener, Peggy Martin, whose home and property was under water after the storm in 2005. This is a remarkable climber that takes over any fence, wall, arbor or trellis, and covers it in pink roses without the threat of thorns. American Beautyberry: This is a native shrub with lovely lavender-pink flowers in summer, followed by interesting clusters of bright purple berries from late summer to late fall along the arching branches. It’s best in full sun but tolerates light shade.  Abutilon “Flowering Maple”: Also nick-named the Chinese Lantern, likely due to their flowers have a papery consistency, this unique topiary is a tropical that is low-maintenance. It provides lots of blooms in the form of pendant bell-shaped flowers and dramatic maple shaped leaves. A happy Abutilon can bloom nearly non-stop from late Spring until the first frost. Please note- All Seasons may or may not have these plants in stock available to purchase at the time you come to purchase these. If you're ever looking for something specific, please call the garden center at 337.264.1418 or send an email question via this link prior to your shopping visit!
April gardening to do list
21 Mar, 2024
April Gardening to do List: -Prune azaleas, camellias, gardenias, quince, spirea, viburnum, wisteria, dogwood, hydrangeas, mock orange and redbuds immediately after they are finished blooming to encourage flowering for next year. -Do not prune off foliage of spring-blooming bulbs until after the foliage has turned brown. -Plant warm-season bedding plants. -Fertilize shrubs using a general-purpose fertilizer. -Fertilize azaleas and camellias after they bloom and again 6 weeks later with an acid “azalea fertilizer. This fertilizer can be used on other acid-loving plants, such as gardenias & hollies. Water the fertilizer in with the plant. -Fertilize summer-blooming perennials, bulbs, tropical plants and bedding plants monthly with a granular product or twice a month with a water-soluble product. -Mulch plants to reduce watering requirements, suppress weed growth and minimize soil temperature changes. Mulch should be applied up to 2'' thick to be effective. -Remove faded blooms from bedding plants to encourage more flowers. -Start seeds or plant transplants for kitchen gardens. Don't forget the herbs! -Select and plant roses. We have a large selection now blooming! -Release beneficial insects to organically control pests. -Prune, feed and treat houseplants if needed. They may need to be watered more often as your home receives more sun. If leaves droop or wilt, water more. -Fertilize established lawns. -Harvest seeds from flower heads only after they have dried completely on the plant. Store dried seeds in paper bags or envelopes to prevent mold. -Start seeds fast by soaking over night before planting the next day. -Remove blooms from caladiums and coleus to encourage more foliage.
shrubs for containers
21 Mar, 2024
With their decorative foliage, sculptural form and seasonal blooms, shrubs make beautiful additions to container gardens. Drift Roses Drift roses are compact roses that bloom nearly year-round in our climate. Stick to the classic red for the most blooming power and easy care, but there are other colors to “grow” with such as white, apricot, coral, yellow, and pink. Enjoys full sun, well-drained soil and regular fertilizing throughout the growing season. Sunshine Ligustrum A wonderful, problem-free addition to southern landscapes, this Ligustrum had lost everything that people didn’t like about the common privet but retained the hardiness. Golden-chartreuse leaves on a compact, adaptable plant. Keep in at least 6-8 hours of sun to retain color. Baby Cakes Blackberry Baby Cakes is a dwarf, thornless blackberry perfect for patio pots, staying in the full sun, with its compact habit. In summer, large, classic and sweet tasting berries present on the plant in a fireworks-like spray of fruit. As a bonus, this blackberry will produce twice- in summer and in fall! Confederate Jasmine If you’re looking for something to take your garden to “new heights,” confederate jasmine is for you! Plant it on a trellis in a container so it can grow up, while remaining an evergreen and blooming sweet-smelling white flowers in Spring-Summer. Japanese Aralia Bold, tropical foliage that is resistant to frost and will thrive in shade under a patio. Mature size: 4 feet tall, 3 feet wide. Ideal growing conditions: part to full shade, moist soil. Acadiana Holly This upright, compact holly makes an attractive cone shape with very little trimming. The hybrid variety makes an abundance of berries every year to brighten winter yards. Deep green foliage remains elegant year-round. Can grow in full sun or part shade, and needs moist, acidic soil. Bird-of-Paradise Not truly a shrub, this tropical, rhizomatous perennial can be a little too waterlogged of yards don’t drain well. Very easy to grow in a pot, they may actually bloom sooner and more often, as they like to be a little root-bound. Requires full sun and rich, well-drained soil. Indigo Flair Mahonia Mahonia is great for shadier yards or northern exposures. This lacy, delicate evergreen shrub is actually a tough, easy care performer. Fragrant, yellow flowers in winter are a welcome bonus. Mahonia does not like afternoon sun, and soil needs to be well-drained. Pygmy Date Palm This compact, reliable palm is easy to grow in containers. Sudden hard freezes may damage it, so growing one in a large pot that can easily moved indoors may be preferable to planting in the ground. Pygmy Date enjoys full to part sun and well-drained soil. Fertilize with a palm-specific fertilizer. Coppertone Distylium Related to witchhazel, this relatively unknown evergreen is sure to be a future star of southern gardens. Quite simply, the plant seems to be completely free of any disease or insect problems. Deep green leaves endure heat and frost, and the glossy texture is a natural complement to most other plants. Enjoys full to part sun and rich, moist soil that is well-drained. Pugster Buddleia (Butterfly Bush) Enjoy full size flowers on a dwarf plant! Only reaching 2’ tall and wide, it still has the large, full flowers normally seen on a much larger plant. It blooms non-stop from early summer through frost. Thanks to thick, sturdy stems, the Pugster® series offers vastly improved hardiness and winter survival over other types of dwarf butterfly bush. Daisy Duke Gardenia This rebloomer will make you feel loved all summer long, as you enjoy extended flowering time. Low to no maintenance required for this beautiful pottery worth piece! Pro tip: to maximize bloom, trim lightly just after the first blooms have finished. Little John Bottlebrush The texture and interesting blooms, which resemble a bottle brush, will add a WOW factor to the full sun container it’s planted into. Plus, hummingbirds will flock to it, and the best part? They will remember it and will revisit year after year! Lime Sizzler Firebush Performing well in a container, the Firebush features green and yellow variegated foliage with sizzling red-orange flowers from late spring through fall. The foliage is intriguing enough, but the red flower spikes are enjoyed by the hummingbirds, which you will enjoy! Please note- All Seasons may or may not have these plants in stock available to purchase at the time you come to purchase these. If you're ever looking for something specific, please call the garden center at 337.264.1418 or send an email question via this link prior to your shopping visit! Click here to learn how to create a container garden!
Vegetable gardening
21 Mar, 2024
Many people are planting edibles for the “Farm-to-Table” healthy life-style, or just for a fun activity with the kids! However, we are asked lots of questions from those who are experiencing trial and error as well as those who are ready to “DIG” it, but have some initial questions. Below are several questions and answer examples to help get growing! You can always send us your direct question here or come in to visit with an associate! Growing Herbs for a Cook's Garden What’s the best way to start a cook’s herb garden? Wondering about pots versus in-ground, seeds versus plants, etc. We could go into a lot of detail about growing each herb, but here are a couple general things to consider. Herbs are perennials, meaning they come back every year, and some are annuals or grown as annuals, meaning they need to be planted every year. Some perennial herbs are rosemary, thyme, oregano, sage, mint and lavender; We usually recommend planting these as transplants. Some that are annuals or grown as annuals are basil, cilantro, parsley and dill; We usually say it’s fine to plant these from seeds. Also, many of the culinary herbs we use often are originally from the Mediterranean and they prefer drier soil like you’d find in that part of the world. That’s why growing in containers is often a good option, because soil usually dries out more quickly in containers. If you’re growing in the ground, it’s important to make sure the soil won’t hold water. You can do that by mounding the soil or planting at the top of a slope rather than in a low spot. We especially recommend growing perennial herbs like rosemary and thyme in the ground because they can become part of your landscaping, but they grow well in containers too. Fertilizing Herbs Indoors I can’t grow outside anymore because of my HOA so I’m growing mint indoors. I accidentally fed it the other day with houseplant fertilizer. Is it still okay to eat it? Houseplant fertilizer is typically a 10-10-10 fertilizer, meaning it has equal amounts nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium — that makes it a balanced fertilizer and typically, vegetable and herb fertilizer is balanced, too, though with smaller numbers, like a 5-5-5. The danger of the houseplant fertilizer is that it contains more nutrients and you could’ve overfertilized the mint. But it should be OK to eat — just keep watering and back off the fertilizer a little. Why Can't I Grow Herbs From Seed? I keep buying seeds for herbs but the only ones that grow are parsley, basil and dill. It may seem cheaper to plant herbs from seed, but many herbs don’t really grow that easily from seed. Transplants are usually a better option. Some of the herbs mentioned — parsley, basil and dill — are exceptions, but we still recommend buying parsley and basil as transplants, as well as rosemary, thyme, lavender, oregano and sage. Herb seeds to easily plant from seed are dill and cilantro. Growing Cilantro in our Warm Climates I am usually lucky and have a green thumb except for cilantro. Any suggestions? Cilantro can be tricky! Even though it seems like it would be a summer plant, it actually grows best in cooler weather, so in spring and fall. It can also grow in a little shade. In warmer climates like us, you can actually plant it in the fall and grow it through winter into spring. Can I Keep Cilantro and Basil From Bolting? How do you keep herbs like cilantro and basil from going to seed quickly? This is a great question, but let’s start with timing first. Cilantro seems like it would be a summer crop, but it actually prefers cooler weather, so be sure to grow it in spring and fall instead of the heat of summer. Basil likes warmer weather. Most herbs will flower as the weather warms. With basil, you can pinch the blooms off to keep the plant producing more leaves. With cilantro, when it starts bolting (going to seed by blooming) as it gets warm, just let it go, but leave it in the garden to attract pollinators and then to dry and harvest the seed, which is the spice called coriander When Can You Start Cutting Herbs? How soon can you start harvesting herbs from new plants? For most herbs, harvest from the outer part of the plant and leave the center alone — that’s where new growth comes from. That’s also true for harvesting lettuce and other greens. Shade-Tolerant Herbs Are there any herbs that don’t require full sun? Yes — cilantro, parsley, thyme, mint, chives and tarragon are a few herbs that can grow in part sun. What's Wrong With My Basil? My basil is planted in a self-watering container with oregano and parsley. The oregano and parsley are doing well, but the basil is looking very light in color, not the normal bright green I usually see. What am I doing wrong? It sounds like your basil is getting too much water and could have root rot. Parsley and oregano aren’t quite as susceptible though they can get rot too. You might cut back some of the affected basil leaves and then reduce watering a bit to see if that helps. Am I Planting Lavender Wrong? What is the easiest and fastest way to grow lavender? I keep buying lavender plants and they keep dying. Please help. It’s really important that lavender is in well-draining soil, meaning it doesn’t hold water. If you’re growing in a pot, use a clay pot that dries out quickly. If you’re growing in the ground, be sure the lavender is at the top of a slope where the soil will drain well. You can also add rock mulch or a little sand in your soil to help with drainage. Lavender can have problems with fungus, especially in our humid environment, so when you have larger plants, you want to trim them for better airflow. For large plants, just prune back where you can tell there’s not good air flow. Only harvest about one-third of the blooms at a time. How Do I Make Compost at Home? Several have asked about making compost at home, so we’ll start with some basics. Generally, you make compost by mixing organic materials from around your home like grass clippings, kitchen scraps and leaves to decompose into compost, which is full of nutrients that benefit your soil. You need a 3:1 ratio of what we call brown materials, which are slow to decompose, and green materials, which are quicker. Browns are carbon-rich and include leaves and bark; greens are nitrogen-rich like grass and vegetable scraps. You need more browns — 3 parts to every 1 green — to slow down the decomposition process. You also need water to make compost; a lot of problems come with compost being too dry, because it needs water and nitrogen, or to wet, probably because there’s not enough brown material. You can make compost just in a pile in your yard, or you can use a bin made of wood, plastic, or metal. Either way, your bin needs to provide easy access and good airflow. What About Ants in a Compost Bin? How do I get rid of ants in a container composter? Ants are not necessarily a bad thing in compost, and they may be helping break things down, but if you have a lot of them, it could also be a sign that your compost mix is too dry. To help, turn it with a shovel or pitchfork, sprinkle in some water, and add some nitrogen, like with a little bagged manure compost. How Do I Fill My Raised Bed? I have raised beds that had vegetable plants in them last year. What should I do to prepare the beds for a new growing season? We typically recommend a mix of roughly 1/3 topsoil, 1/3 peat or other lightweight amendment and 1/3 compost, mixed together well in your bed. Peat is lightweight and fluffy, so it works great, but it’s not very sustainable; some alternatives are coconut coir, which may be hard to find or expensive, or shredded leaves or bark, which you may already have around. You can also add a little perlite, a soil amendment that promotes good drainage and air flow in your soil. If you already have soil in your bed, but just need to refresh it for this year, you probably just need to add a few bags of compost to get some nutrients back in there. But if your soil feels really hard and dense, you can add some perlite and peat or shredded leaves, too. Raised Bed Soil pH and Vegetables How do you accommodate different soil pH preferences amongst plants that share a raised bed? Most vegetables like a pH of 6 to 7, so you shouldn’t have a big discrepancy in the soil pH needs of vegetables in a raised bed. One vegetable that likes more alkaline soil is asparagus, and an edible plant that likes more acidic soil is blueberries — for each of those, we’d recommend growing in their own beds. What Not to Grow in a Raised Bed Are there any vegetables that do not do well in a raised garden? If a raised bed is deep enough, most anything can grow well. We recommend it be at least 12 inches deep. Should I Use Flowers in My Vegetable Garden? Would you recommend flowers around your garden to attract pollinators? Yes, we do! We also recommend planting a lot of herbs around your veggies to help with pests and to attract pollinators. What Combos to Grow in Containers I have a small space that gets full sun. Can you recommend some pairings that will do well together in containers? I am all over basil, parsley, tomatoes … any other combos? Tomatoes with basil and parsley sounds great. We also love growing peppers in containers, and you could grow them with oregano and onions. Lettuce and greens do really well in containers; so do most herbs. We also recommend including some flowers like marigolds — they add color and can help with insect pests. Growing Cucumbers in Containers What are your thoughts on growing cucumbers in a container? You can definitely grow cucumbers in containers! Choose a bush or compact variety, which just means it’s a shorter vine. You’ll need to give it a trellis that it can grow up. You also want to be sure to get a container large enough — it should hold roughly 5 gallons of soil, which is about a 14-inch wide pot. Can I Plant Last Year's Seeds? I have some seed packets I got a year ago. Will they grow? Our answer is: Probably. Most seeds will keep for a couple years so give it a try. Why Do You Mulch Your Vegetable Garden? Mulching plants is important for many reasons: It prevents weeds, helps the soil retain moisture and breaks down to improve your soil over time. Good options include shredded cedar, cypress or redwood mulch, straw, ground pine bark and shredded leaves. Overall, you want something lightweight that will break down quickly to help improve the soil, so larger chip or bark mulches aren’t the best. Should I Use a Trellis? Can or should you trellis veggies like cucumbers, squash and zucchini? I have a 4’x4’ bed and it’s looking like my eyes were bigger than my garden 😍. And if so, what kind of trellis system is best? We definitely recommend trellising. It maximizes space and also keeps plants off the ground, where they’re more likely pick up diseases or rot. And it makes produce easier to pick. There are a lot of trellising systems out there. Go with something sturdy, which means probably metal. Also consider where you’re going to store them when the season is over. If you have limited space, look for ones that will fold up or flatten for easy storage. Garden Placement in Hot, Sunny Climates My veggies seem to wilt even when watering. Should I consider putting some of them where they get morning sun but afternoon shade? The rule of thumb is that vegetables need six hours of sun a day, but if it’s really hot, a lot more than that could be too much. Afternoon sun is hotter; that’s also the time of day when more water has evaporated, so plants just get dehydrated. So in our really hot area, morning sun is better. If you’re not sure whether an area gets morning sun or afternoon sun, or how much sun, just take some time to watch it. Tips for Growing Watermelon Any advice would be greatly appreciated on growing watermelon. Watermelons like hot weather so wait until the weather warms to plant. They grow on really long, vigorous vines so you need plenty of space — plant them 3 to 5 feet apart. You’ll want to keep weeds down in the area; mulch after planting rather than waiting until the vines get going. Watermelons take a long time to grow — usually around 3 months until harvest — so keep them watered and fed and be patient. They’ll be worth the wait. How Many Tomato Plants Do I Need? Will you get tomatoes if you plant only one plant? Yes, tomato plants are self-pollinating, which means you only need one plant to get fruit. That being said, if you have the space, plant more! Any Favorite Determinate Tomatoes? What are determinate tomatoes? Determinate tomatoes are also called bush tomatoes. They grow to roughly a certain height and then stop, and they usually produce their fruit in the same time frame. Determinates are good for smaller spaces. Indeterminate tomatoes, on the other hand, are also called vining tomatoes and they keep growing taller and making tomatoes until they’re killed by frost or something else. Both types need to be trellised or staked. A couple of popular determinate tomatoes are: Roma, a paste tomato, which are the best for canning and making tomato sauce; and Celebrity, a good all-around, award-winning red tomato. Why Are My Tomato Leaves Yellow? Our tomato plants don’t look well. They have lots of yellow leaves and the leaves have holes. What should we do? It’s hard to say what’s causing holes in the leaves without seeing them, but the yellowing may be a nitrogen deficiency that affects the plant’s overall health, making it more susceptible to pests. Try fertilizing your plant with a nitrogen-rich organic fertilizer. You can also add a little compost around your plants and water it in well. What Causes Blossom End Rot on Tomatoes? I have horrible luck growing Roma tomatoes in containers. It looks like it’s growing great then the bottom turns brown then black. I try to consistently water, so what am I doing wrong? You're experiencing blossom end rot, which is very common. It’s actually caused by a calcium deficiency, but the mechanics are really about fluctuations of water. Plants need consistent watering, so sometimes you’ll see end rot after a heavy rain followed by a period of drought. Consistent watering is key, but it can be harder when you’re growing in containers. To help with this, choose containers that don’t dry out quickly — look for plastic or glazed clay instead of plain terra cotta. Also, if you have a tomato with end rot, it’s still fine to harvest and eat the good portion, and you can let the plant keep growing. Just because one or two fruit have blossom end rot doesn’t mean they all will. What Veggies Regrow From Scraps? We’ve had a lot of questions about re-growing vegetables from scratch. It's definitely doable with a few vegetables, including potatoes and celery as well as some types of lettuce and cabbage. Should I Start Root Crops Inside or Outside? Is it advisable to start root vegetables (specifically carrots and potatoes) from seed indoors? I feel like transplanting them will disturb the root. While you can start root veggies indoors, we find it’s really best to start them outdoors where you’re planning on growing them. You may need to “thin” your seedlings a little as they come up to get them spaced out correctly for growing. This basically just means picking out some to allow others to grow. When Are Root Crops Ready to Harvest? How do you know when root vegetables are ready to harvest? There are a few vegetables where the part you eat grows under the soil: carrots, beets, radishes and turnips among them. For much of the time these plants are growing, all you’ll see is the tops, the greens. These are important for taking in sunlight and directing that energy to help the root grow below the soil. When the roots start getting larger, you’ll start to see the tops popping up out of the soil a little. When those tops of the roots really start pushing up out of the soil, that’s when you know they’re ready to harvest.. Planting Onions Onions can be planted from seed or sets, which are small bulbs, but you can also plant from bare-root bundles. They’re just small onions and they’re very easy to plant. You can plant them in spring starting a little before the last frost date. Just separate out the individual onions and plant them about an inch down so the bulb portion is below the soil. Plant them about 6 inches apart for mature onions or 3 inches apart for scallions. You can hill up the soil a little to help give them good drainage. For full-size onions these will take a couple months to grow. When Will My Garlic Be Ready? I planted garlic in early spring and I see shoots. Can I expect fully developed garlic this summer? Fall is usually the best time to plant garlic — it overwinters and then starts really growing in spring — but you can also try planting in early spring. If you planted in spring, you should be able to harvest in mid to late summer. If you see shoots coming up, that’s a good sign. Just keep them watered and mulched and you should be good to go. You'll know bulbs are ready to harvest when the tops start turning yellow and falling over. Save some of your largest bulbs and plant those this fall. How to Know When to Harvest Potatoes Potato plants will start to turn yellow and die back when the roots are ready to harvest. It usually takes a few months after planting. You’ll dig around in the soil to find the potatoes, which is pretty fun. You can harvest “new” potatoes sooner, if you want — they are just young potatoes. Why Aren't My Pepper Plants Flowering Yet? People ask about green pepper plants that are all leaves and no flowers or fruit … Peppers like hot weather and plants don’t really start producing flowers and fruit until the temperatures get warmer. It’s a good sign if your plants look healthy otherwise. Can I Grow Lettuce on a Balcony? Can you grow lettuce in flower boxes on a balcony? Yes, you can, as long as you have at least part sun, which means about four hours a day. Lettuce would also be great for window boxes. How Do I Harvest Lettuce? How do you harvest lettuce? Can you use a little at a time or is it a one and done thing? Lettuce comes in a couple types: either heading lettuce varieties or leaf lettuce varieties. Heading varieties like iceberg and Romaine are typically harvested as the whole plant — as you say, one and done — but leaf lettuce varieties can be harvested often while growing, picking from the outside of the plant while more leaves grow from the inside of the plant. These are sometimes called “cut and come again” varieties and you’ll see that term used for flowers and other vegetables, too. We recommend both types but if you’re looking to use a little at a time, leaf varieties are best. What is the Fungus on My Cucumber and Squash Leaves? Why do my cucumbers and squash get a kind of fungus on the leaves and quit producing? What you’re seeing is called powdery mildew — it looks like baby powder on your leaves. It’s a very common fungus that you’ll see particularly on cucumbers, squash and melons. As the mildew spreads, it damages your plant. You can prevent powdery mildew by planting resistant varieties, by not crowding your plants, and especially by not watering from above — you want to water at the base of your plants, not on the leaves, which can promote fungal growth on leaves. You can also try to treat it with an organic fungicide, like neem oil. But if your plants look pretty infected, you should pull them out and get rid of them to avoid spreading it through your garden. How Do I Get Rid of Squash Bugs? I have never had squash bugs before last year. How do you get rid of them and will I have them again this year? With squash bugs, too, you want to attract their natural predators, which include spiders and a particular fly that loves plants in the dill family: cilantro, dill, and parsley. Plant these alongside your squash, cucumbers and melons. Remove the little red eggs as soon as you see them on leaves. You can also try an organic treatment like neem oil. How to Prevent Tomato Hornworms How do you keep tomato worms off your tomato plants? Pick off the little green worms as soon as you see them on your plants. The best way to prevent them from taking over is to attract their natural predator, specifically parasitic wasps. Parasitic wasps love many of the herbs and flowers that we love, including dill, cosmos, fennel, thyme, yarrow, zinnia and borage; plant these alongside your tomatoes, peppers and eggplants to keep hornworms in check. What to Do About Roly Poly Bugs How do I get rid of roly poly bugs? They are eating my strawberries right now but always seem to get to my veggies and fruit. I don’t want to use sprays as I’m trying to keep my garden organic. Roly poly bugs are also called pill bugs, and there are a lot of organic remedies for them from chili pepper spray to garlic spray. We would recommend diatomaceous earth. You’ll sprinkle it in the soil around your strawberry plants. Just like any other organic product, you’ll want to use it as directed on the packaging. How to Get Rid of Slugs on Lettuce I am growing romaine, but notice little slug looking bugs on my lettuce. What to do? Slugs definitely go after lettuce, and they can damage your plants. What you can do is just pick them off by hand. Drop them in soapy water if you don’t want to smush them yourself. If you handpick often for a week or so, you won’t need to pick them off as often going forward. There are also a few simple things you can add around your plants that may help too — like coffee grounds and eggshells. Both are rough surfaces that may prevent slugs from getting to your plants.
Blueberry
21 Mar, 2024
We have a large selection of different types of Rabbiteye blueberries, which are the varieties that do well in our climate. We suggest planting 2-3 different varieties to promote cross pollination and higher fruit yields. Blueberries thrive in full sun and high acid soils. The pH level of 5.0-5.5 is the threshold of their growth success. This is a level of more acid than our native soil generally contains. At the time of bed prep, using a soil sulfur will help to acidify the soil. If the leaves on the blueberry begin to yellow or drop, the flowers form but fall or if it overall looks bedraggled, the problem likely lies in the soil-specifically the pH level. Our recommended organic solution is to use Cotton Burr Compost as a top dress mulch.  Plant blueberries now to enjoy a bowl full in late May through mid August!
Azalea
15 Mar, 2024
· Azaleas are a member of the genus Rhododendron. There are more than 800 species of Rhododendron and of these approximately 40 species are evergreen azaleas. There are also several specials of deciduous azaleas. · Deciduous azaleas are native to Asia, southern Europe and North America. The honey suckle azalea, or Rhododendron canescens, grows as a native in wooded areas here in Louisiana. The flame azalea, or Rhododendron austrinum, also is an indigenous azalea of Louisiana. · Azalea history: o Evergreen azaleas are native to Asia, particularly Japan where they have been hybridized for centuries. o They were introduced to North America in the 1800s. o Rosedown Plantation records evergreen azaleas planted in 1848. o Evergreen dwarf azaleas were introduced at 1915 World’s Fair (Coral Bells was the hybrid introduced.) · Common evergreen azaleas for Louisiana: o Rhododendron indicum- These azaleas are large, robust, spring bloomers. o Most common: Formosa, Pride of Mobile, George Tabor, Mrs. G. G. Gerbing, President Clay, Judge Solomon. o Rhododendron obtusum- This is dwarf or semi-dwarf. o There are many hybrids in this category: o Karume azalea- commonly planted are ‘Coral Bells,’ ‘Christmas Cheer,’ ‘Hershey Red,’ ‘Snow’ o Satsuki hybrids- These are bred for later blooming and for spreading growth habit. Often planted satsukis are: ‘Gumpo,’ ‘Chinzan,’ ‘Macrantha.’ o Robin Hill hybrids are bred for the variety of flower color and type, and cold hardiness. ‘Conversation Piece,’ and ‘Watchet’ are popular Robin Hill hybrids. o Glenn Dale hybrid- These are bred for cold hardiness. ‘Fashion’ is a good example. o Encore Azaleas are bred for extended blooming. o Encore began hybridizing in 1990 by horticulturist Buddy Lee. There are about 30 Encore hybrids today. ·Considerations when planting azaleas: o Amount of sunlight/ shade o Soil PH o Drainage · Azalea Care: o Fertilizing o Pruning o Mulching o Disease/Insect Control · Encore Azaleas bloom in spring, summer and fall! · Each of the many Encore varieties begins their performance with the spring flowering season. Once this "first act" of blooming concludes in spring, new shoots begin to grow and set buds. The Encore Azalea's "second act" opens when these buds begin blooming into full flower during summer. This unique bloom season continues through the fall, the curtain dropping with the onset of cold weather. But, the show goes on. · Planting & Caring for Encore Azaleas · Encore Azaleas are similar to traditional azaleas in that they require proper planting, watering and care to thrive. Here are a few simple guidelines to help your new plants grow to their full potential: · Sun Exposure · Encore Azaleas perform best in sites that offer anywhere from full sun to part shade. All day filtered sun or morning sun with afternoon shade are okay. A minimum of four hours of direct sunlight per day is required for proper blooms. Too much shade can result in skipped or significantly reduced bloom cycles. · Check Soil Drainage · Encore Azaleas grow best in a soil that is well-drained but moist. As with many other plants, they do not like a constantly soggy or wet soil, which can lead to root rot and other plant diseases. If you are uncertain about soil drainage in the area you intend to plant your Encore Azaleas, it’s well worth taking the time to test the drainage before planting. To test soil drainage, diiiig a hole 12" wide by 12" in the planting area. Fill the hole with water and let it drain. Then, after it drains, fill it with water again, but this time clock how long it takes to drain. In well-drained soil the water level will go down at a rate of about 1 inch an hour. A faster rate, such as in loose, sandy soil, may signal potentially dry site conditions . A slower rate indicates poor draining soil and could be a caution you might need to improve drainage , plant in a raised mound or bed, or look for plants that are more tolerant of wet or boggy conditions. · Spacing · How you intend to use your Encore Azaleas will determine how far apart you space them . When planting a hedge, space plants the same width apart as the mature dimensions specify. This measurement should be taken from the center of one plant to the center of the other. If you want space between plants separate them by more than the mature width dimensions. · Planting · Dig a hole at a depth equal to the height and two to three times as wide as the container your Encore Azalea was growing in. Turn and break up the soil removed from the planting hole. Mix some compost, such as Root Zone Organic Planting Mix with the soil. This is especially important iiiiiiiif you have heavy clay soil. Remove your Encore Azalea from its container and carefully but firmly loosen some feeder roots around the surface of the root ball. Set the plant into the hole you've prepared, making sure the top of the root ball is slightly above the soil level. Pull your soil around the plant, water thoroughly and cover with a 1- to 1.5-inch layer of shredded wood mulch or pine straw. . Water Water your Encore Azalea deeply when you first plant it. During the first growing season keep the soil moist, but not wet, until winter. New azaleas will die quickly if the soil dries excessively, and they can develop root rot if the soil stays constantly soggy. So just keep the soil moist during the first growing season. Your Encore Azaleas should not need regular watering after the first year unless there are periods of excessive drought. Wilting new leaves are a sign your plants need a good deep soaking. Fertilizer Fertilize with the recommended levels of azalea food or a "goof proof' organic fertilizer such as Nitroganic soon after planting . After, feed after the first bloom cycle in spring. To avoid damage from an early frost in fall, cease feeding after August. Fall & Winter Planting Care: Encore Azaleas do well and are easier to establish when they are planted in fall. New roots produced in fall will help the azalea benefit from an early spring root flush so it will flourish in the next growing season. During the first winter, it's a good idea to cover your young azalea with insulating covering when temperatures are forecast to drop below 20 degrees F. As your Encore Azalea matures, it will need less winter care. Although less watering is necessary when planted during the fall or winter seasons ; do not allow the roots to become dry. Pruning Encore Azaleas do not have to be pruned, or their flowers deadheaded .That being said, they respond very well to pruning and, in fact, will benefit from it. Encore Azaleas are unique in that they bloom in the spring, summer and fall. So when is the best time to prune them? Unlike most other types of azaleas, which only set flower buds one time a year during fall and then bloom in spring, Encore Azaleas produce buds every time new growth is produced. So, pruning Encore Azaleas immediately after the spring bloom cycle will encourage more new growth, and consequently more flower buds. When pruning a healthy Encore Azalea, use sharp pair of bypass hand pruners to cut back branches that have outgrown the rest of the shrub and are spoiling the shape of the plant. Cut these branches back to a point just a couple or few inches above the main form of the plant. Make your cuts about an inch or so above a leaf.
Mosquito
14 Mar, 2024
We are all aware that mosquito bites are painful and annoying, but they can be very dangerous as well. West Nile Virus and Zika virus are two of the more well-known diseases that are transported via mosquito bites. These diseases can lead to serious health problems that are sometimes incurable, so it is best to reduce our exposure to mosquitoes however we can. Adult mosquitoes are the biters, but of course, it is best to stop mosquito populations in the larval stage, before they grow to biting age. Banish Standing Water Mosquitoes lay their eggs in water or on very damp soil. That bucket catching rainwater underneath your gutter can hold hundreds of thousands of larvae. The best way to keep mosquitoes at bay is to eliminate their breeding sites. Check your entire property for standing water, paying particular attention to places where it's prone to collect: clogged gutters, pet bowls, kiddie pools, watering cans, tarps, trays underneath potted plants. Keep your lawn mowed and weeds under control to prevent water from pooling in foliage. Mosquitoes favor warm, shallow bodies of water, so water features should be designed to be at least 2 feet deep, and the water should always be circulating. Mosquito dunks containing the natural bacteria Bacillus thuringiensis, or Bt are deadly to mosquitoes, but are harmless to other forms of wildlife. So if you have a birdbath or pond in your yard, consider treating it with this naturally occurring bacterium. Of course, addressing drainage issues is crucial to reducing mosquito populations in the lawn. We have been doing landscapes in Acadiana for 30 years, and can cater to any need including drainage. Blow Them Away If you can't enjoy a pleasant evening on the porch without being eaten alive, just turn the fan on (or install one if needed). Mosquitoes are fairly weak fliers, so they'll avoid your outdoor living spaces if there's a breeze. Treat Areas with the Right Products The newest weapon in mosquito control is the Spartan Mosquito Eradicator. It has been very recently discovered that mosquitoes actually track us and other prey by sensing the carbon dioxide in our breath. The Mosquito Eradicatoris as safe and non-toxic gets – it is simply an insect trap that releases an irresistible whiff of CO 2 . A pair of traps is capable of reducing mosquito populations by about 95%, on properties up to a full acre. Talstar is a pyrethroid insecticide that is very effective in killing ground-dwelling insects like mosquito larvae, as well as ants and fleas, but is non-toxic to birds and pets. Talstar is formulated on a special pellet that penetrates beneath grass thatch to the soil surface, making it more deadly to ants and mosquitoes, but reduces exposure for other wildlife. A single treatment lasts a couple of months, and a bag can cover a full acre. Bug Blaster is a similar product that is suitable for smaller yards. We also have lots of natural diffusers, incense sticks, and candles that can get that citronella smell in the air. This patio egg is made of porous ceramic, and diffuses a pleasant aroma without the use of fans or cords of any kind. One of these will effectively treat about 200 square feet of patio. Repel Them With Plants Now that we’ve done everything we can to stop mosquitoes from breeding, let’s talk about deterring the adults. Mosquitoes start feeding at dusk, and continue for a couple of hours after dark, but where are they during the daytime, and why do we get bitten whenever we’re outside? Well, mosquitoes are resting during the day and avoiding the heat, like us. Basically, they are hanging around in our bushes and shrubs, and patio pots! We can use this tendency of mosquitoes to seek foliage to our advantage, by filling our patios and walkways with mosquito repellant plants. The citronella geranium is a fantastic container plant that gives a pleasant scent when crushed, and it can even be rubbed on the skin for a little extra protection. Dab a little on your ankles and wrists, and around the backs of your ears. Lemongrass also does a fantastic job, as to many strong-scented herbs like mint, basil, rosemary, and many others. There is no shortage of lists of plants that repel mosquitoes, and we have them all! Southern Wax Myrtle is an evergreen shrub or small tree that has been used by Acadians for centuries as a natural insect repellant. A hedge of these adjacent to the patio would seriously reduce the mosquito population. For a more potent solution, make these herbal bundles and toss them on the fire or BBQ during your next outdoor get-together. Natural Bug Repellent: Herbal Mosquito Bundles Repel mosquitoes by burning these lavender, sage and mint bundles. Gather Your Supplies On newspaper, lay out your fresh herbs. Be sure that they do not have any water on their leaves, if so they will mold. Cut the String Cut a 4 foot long piece of string. Cut the herbs to approximately 6 inches long. Lay the string on the newspaper. In the center of the string, form a pile of herbs from the sage, lavender and mint. Tie the Top Tie a tight knot in the string close to the top of the herb pile. Lots of Knots Flip the herb bundle over and tie another knot. Continue tightly tying knots on both sides until you reach the end of the bundle. Knot the End Finish the bundle by knotting off the end and trimming up any loose ends on the herbs. Just Add Fire Put out in a decorative basket at your next BBQ or outdoor gathering. Allow guests to toss the bundles on the fire or BBQ to keep mosquitoes away. So buy a Spartan Mosquito eradicator, put some lemongrass in your patio pots, drain those buckets and clean those birdfeeders, make a herb bundle they’ll hate, and enjoy your summer where you should be – outdoors, with us at All Seasons!
Hibiscus
08 Mar, 2024
We all love the tropics- the bright colors and inviting tones! Bring that feeling into your garden with two of the best-looking tropical bloomers! Bougainvilleas enjoy to be “root-bound”, meaning they are an excellent choice for a container or hanging basket! They flower the heaviest when the roots are slightly crowded in the container. If they are planted in the ground, you’ll notice they tend to stay more green.  If you have some from last year and want to encourage it to bloom, a simple tip is to “tip prune” off about ½ inch of the stem tips. This encourages more branching and ultimately more flowers! Another fact about Bougainvilleas is they flower the heaviest when they are water-stressed. This may not make much sense to you because we like to care for our plants and give them drinks often. However, there are some plants, like these, that enjoy being more drought-tolerant. Think of them like a desert plant: they are under water-stress, then water pours into them and BOOM- they bloom! Withhold water for extended periods to force the plant into bloom. Our advice would be to wait until you see the leaves slightly wilting. At that point, it’s ready to receive a thorough watering session so it can perform for you! Hibiscus bloom on new wood, so it’s always important to “tip prune” them back. Also, pinch off old flower buds to help the plant perform best with less “baggage.” Pests like aphids and white flies effect their blooms as well, so preventive measures work best. We can help provide you details. One of the most common questions we get from concerned customers is that their Hibiscus’ leaves are yellow. Yellowing leaves is an indication of overwatering or underwatering. In the summer, it’s usually underwatering. Just like us, plants need lots of water in the hot summer months. We have a homemade superbloom tonic when you want to kick-start your Bougainvillea and/or Hibiscus to bloom: 1 gallon of water 2 tablespoons of Fertilome all-purpose plant food 2 tablespoons of Fertilome Blooming & Rooting 2 tablespoons of Epom Salt Fertilize with this mixture every other week for results! When your Bougainvillea and/or Hibiscus are already blooming, and you want the blooms to continue, our recommendation is to maintain a slow-release fertilizer schedule, every 3 months during their growing season. Our best slow-release fertilizers formulated for these specific plants are HibisGain and BouGain. As always, we want to help you know it to be able to grow it! We are always here to provide the education and products to ensure gardening success and a green thumb you can be proud of! Please come visit us to DIG IT!
Garden Geranium
29 Feb, 2024
Geraniums, with their bright colors and flower formation, have been a gardener’s favorite for well over a century. They are popular bedding plants and borders in the garden, and are also ideal for containers. They enjoy full sun to partial sun, matures to about 3’x 3’ and blooms repeatedly through the season in many colors depending on the variety. It is considered a tender perennial, and grown as an annual. Growing geranium plants is easy as long as you can give them what they need. When growing geraniums, they require moist, well-draining soil similar to that of indoor potting soil with equal amounts of soil, peat and perlite. Locate your geraniums in an area with at least six to eight hours of sunlight. Space plants about 8 to 12 inches apart and around the same depth as their original planting pots. Mulching the plants is also recommended to help retain moisture. In addition to watering, which should be done deeply and at least weekly outdoors (though potted plants may need daily watering in hot weather), fertilizing is usually necessary. Note that potted plants may require repotting once they become overgrown, usually noted by wilting between waterings. Regular deadheading of spent blooms will also help encourage additional blooming. When watering outdoor plants, it’s best to avoid overhead irrigation, as this can lead to pests or disease issues. Spring now for Garden geraniums!
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