Christmas Trees are HERE

Live wreaths, garland, door charms, centerpieces and more are great for showing the spirit of Christmas in your home! They add ambience and a terrific “Christmassy” scent in the air. This year we have a gorgeous selection of Live Fresh Fraser Fir Garland, Live Fresh Cedar Garland, and Live Fresh Deluxe Mixed Garland. All are sold by the foot, so tell us exactly how much you need, and we'll cut it for you! Here are some tips on keeping your fresh greenery lasting through the season: Submerge your greenery in a large container of water for a few hours or overnight. Select a location out of direct sunlight (for outdoors) or away from heat or warm air (for indoors) To help balance the moisture greenery releases, mist it with a spray bottle of water every few days. If your greenery starts to dry out or doesn't appear fresh, just re-submerge it in water for a few hours. You'll be surprised how it livens up your greenery!

We offer you fresh cut Christmas trees, each with a special name! These varieties of Christmas trees are fat, full and healthy. Below are some tips to assure your Christmas tree will stay fresh for the whole season: · Purchase a Tree Preservative to add to the water in your tree stand. This specially developed formula helps promote liquid absorption and needle retention. Contents include fiber softeners and essential nutrients and minerals to help maintain a fresher and safer Christmas tree. Natural evergreen fragrance in liquid preservative adds to the holiday experience. It is pet safe as well!  Provides nutrients to keep tree fresh Helps prolong needle retention Scented with natural evergreen oils When you get home, place your tree in its selected location and add tree preservative and water to fill the stand right away. The tree should be out of water for as little time as possible! 30 minutes to an hour is about the maximum time you want to allow. Make sure you check the water level in your stand daily for the first week or so. Your tree will absorb more water during this period. Don't worry if your tree slows down or even stops "drinking" water close to Christmas, this is a common occurrence. Once at home, close any A/C or heater vents close to where your tree is located. Otherwise, the air blowing on the tree will dry it out. Christmas trees look great framed in a big living room window, but the sunlight may contribute somewhat to branches drying out. Consider having a sheer curtain to spread across the window, and close it at least in warm, sunny days. Always be sure to turn off your lights when you are not at home or are going to bed, especially if you have incandescent lights. Newer LEDs are more expensive, but they last YEARS longer and have very little heat output, so they are much safer and more earth-friendly in a variety of ways. You may choose to put your lights on a timer. · We offer lighting and snow flocking services. If your tree is flocked, do not water it!

Poinsettias (Euphorbia pulcherrima) are one of the most popular winter and Christmastime plants. They can be found this time of year in retail outlets and florists and now even in grocery stores. The gorgeous display of bright red against dark green foliage is the perfect combination to match our traditional Christmas palette of red and green. These colors have been used for decorative purposes during winter months dating back to Roman times with the celebration honoring the god Saturn each year between Dec. 17 and 23. The tradition was carried on by Christians as early as the 1300s. Native to Mexico and Central America, the poinsettia grows naturally in the landscape in moist areas that get six to eight hours of indirect sunlight. The Aztecs of Mexico cultivated and used poinsettias for decorative purposes in religious ceremonies, medicinal purposes and as a reddish-purple dye. Poinsettias get their name from Joel Poinsett. A member of the U.S. House of Representatives from South Carolina, he was a physician and minister to Mexico in the early 1820s. Poinsett sent the plant back home to South Carolina and shared it with other plant enthusiasts. Since then it has been grown and used by florists and decorators alike during the winter. Highly cultivated, hundreds of varieties come in shades of red, white and pink and mottled or striped combinations of the colors. Poinsettias do well in containers indoors year-round in well-lit areas protected from drafts and outdoors on patios or protected from full sun during the warmer months. The showy colors of the poinsettias are not flowers. They are actually modified leaves called bracts. The actual flowers are the yellow centers of the bracts. When grown naturally in its native setting, the plant is a large shrub or small tree that grows up to 10 to 15 feet high. As a potted plant, they usually only grow 1 to 2 feet tall. To care for it, water the plant when the soil dries. They do not like to be too wet or too dry. Water at the base of the plant directly on the soil. The plant produces a milky sap that may irritate those who are sensitive to latex. If eaten in large quantities, the sap may cause a mild irritation or possible nausea for pets, especially small kittens and puppies who just love to destroy plants. However, poinsettias are not poisonous, according to a study at The Ohio State University. The best way to select a poinsettia is to look for one that has at least six or more bracts extending over the lower green leaves. Inspect the leaves — they should not droop — and check underneath for pests such as white flies. The longest-lasting poinsettias will have no pollen or sap in the yellow flowers in the center of the bracts. If they have begun to show yellow pollen and sap, poinsettias will not provide a display for much longer. A poinsettia should last for four to six weeks in the home if properly cared for. Once Christmas is past, plants may continue to look good into spring. After that, some folks just throw them away or compost them. They can be transplanted into the yard, but you may lose them during hard freezes if not protected. South sides of the house will be the most protected. Before planting, cut them back to one-half their size. You can also try to get your poinsettia to bloom again for the following year. Poinsettias are short-day plants. That means they set buds and make flowers when the nights lengthen in fall and winter. To help the plant flower and develop the colored bracts, it must receive six to eight hours of indirect sunlight during the day and 14 hours of darkness at night for 40 days straight, starting about Oct. 1. You can do this by covering the plant with a black plastic bag to the ground every afternoon and continuing the practice daily until color shows in the bracts. I’ve successfully done this — with patience. Read our blog, "Poinsettias: Care Through Winter & Beyond" here Article by LSU Ag Center. Visit online here.

This iconic holiday plant has tropical roots. Get tips on keeping your poinsettia looking its best all year. Perhaps no flower represents the winter holidays like the poinsettia. However, these festive plants, which range from the traditional red to pale yellow, can be mysterious when it comes to care and maintenance. Here are some tips on poinsettia care that can help extend those blooms as long as possible – and maybe even encourage your poinsettia to bloom again next year: Warm and Bright: It may seem strange due to their holiday connotations, but poinsettias are tropical plants. Provide lots of sunlight — a sunny window with east, west, or southern exposure is best. Also try to keep the temperature between 65 and 70 degrees F during the day, keeping in mind that the area around a drafty window can be quite a bit cooler than the rest of the room. If your plant’s leaves are touching a cold window, they may drop off. At night, poinsettias like a slightly lower temperature (55 – 60 degrees F), but avoid drastic drops in temperatures. Hydrated and Humid: Make sure to water the poinsettia whenever the surface of the soil feels dry. Give the plant a good watering, but don’t flood or soak it – gravel in the bottom of the pot will help keep the roots dry. If your home is dry during the winter months, a humidifier or plant mister can help your plant stay hydrated. Prevent Leaf Loss: If your plant starts to lose leaves, there are a few likely culprits: is the plant resting against a cold window or near a draft? Is it too warm or dry in the room? Is the plant thirsty? With correct care, poinsettias can be encouraged to re-bloom next holiday, but it’s a touchy and time-consuming process that not all poinsettia fans are prepared for. Save for the Coming Year: First of all, after bloom time, in the spring, poinsettias can benefit from a period of semi-dormancy. You should slow down the watering to weekly at most. Old leaves may shrivel and drop; this is perfectly okay! At this time, you can cut back the plant’s stems to encourage fresh growth. At this point, when things warm up a bit in spring, it is okay to put it outdoors in a sheltered location such as a covered porch or patio. Pinch back the plant throughout the growing seasons to keep it compact and bushy; poinsettias can get quite large! Repot into a larger container if necessary. Prepping the Plant for Bloom: Now, to get it to bloom! It may still be warm in early October, but now it is time to bring it indoors. Every night for at least 6 weeks, put the poinsettia in a completely dark room, like a laundry room or closet, for about 14-16 hours EVERY night. The change in photoperiod is what encourages the poinsettia to change color and bloom. This will happen naturally outdoors, but not in time to have a color change by Christmas, and the plant cannot endure the cooler weather outdoors, so the dark room indoors is the preferred method. Showing Its Holiday Cheer: After doing this throughout October and November, the tops leaves of the plant should emerge red (or white, or pink, depending on your variety), and it should bloom! The showy part of the poinsettia are the leaves, but small yellow flower will emerge from the red fresh growth. Click here to read our blog, "Poinsettias: Not a Flower, A Bract."

Here are some easy growing tips for this seasonal favorite! The Christmas cactus is a long-lived plant with flat, segmented stems. Most of the year its appearance is fairly unassuming. Some potted green in the corner of the living room or parked under a tree in the back yard. Around Christmas, however, something magical happens. With care, this plain looking plant will blossom with flowers of red, white, pink, purple or orange. Because of this festive seasonal bloom, the Christmas cactus is a tradition in many European and North American homes during the holidays. But the beauty of the hardy Christmas cactus isn’t limited to just the holiday season. Caring for Christmas Cactus Christmas cactus thrives in bright, but indirect sunlight. Keep it near a window when indoors or shaded by trees if kept outdoors in warmer months. Despite its name, the Christmas cactus is not a desert plant, but rather has its origins in the tropical rain forests of South America. The plant will not tolerate dry soil and requires regular watering (done at the base of the plant). Conversely, too much water will cause leaves to spot and fall off. Allow the top layer of soil to dry completely before watering. Ensuring a Christmas Bloom In fall, night temperatures around 50-55 degrees will trigger Christmas cactus to form flower buds. A carefully monitored balance of darkness and sunlight will give you beautiful blooms in time for the holidays. Six to eight weeks before Christmas, place the plant in a completely dark space where the temperature is 60 degrees (such as a closet or garage) for 12 hours each night. Be sure to bring the plant out to a sunny spot for the other 12 hours each day. Water only when the top inch or so of the soil feels dry, and you should get flowers for the holiday. A few weeks after the flowers have faded, prune stems back to encourage new growth.

Christmas Tree Decorating is not an exact science but more of an art. There are no fixed rules. Unfortunately, one size does not fit all, but this guide can be used to loosely help instruct you, the designer, on how many of each item you may need for your project. A lot of people start with light coverage and add to their tree every year until they achieve the desired look. We are STOCKED full of ribbons in every shade of Christmas theme you can imagine- from whimsical to elegant to traditional to blue. We also have a huge selection of sprays and stems as well as ornaments to create the look you’re dreaming about! Shop our garden center for your fresh cut Christmas tree, then step inside the gift shop to dress it up! It is up to you to decide what look you like best. Some choose to incorporate more ornaments than sprays and stems and vice versa. Also, ribbon is a great space filler. And you will need to keep in mind how much ribbon you want to use in your tree when choosing ornaments, stems, and sprays. You will need to make adjustments to this guide based on whether you are filling up the entire tree/all sides or if you are only filling up 3/4 of the tree because only 3/4 of the tree is showing due to it being in a corner location. How many ornaments do I need to decorate ALL SIDES of my tree? Ornaments can be anything other than a spray or stem. Mix and Match. Ornaments could include birds, ball ornaments, character ornaments, and more. Use 3/4 of the total below if you are only decorating 3/4 of your tree with the back in a corner. You may also consider using less than the amount below if you want to use more sprays and stems in place of ornaments. Keep in mind, if you are wanting ornaments larger than 10 inches, you don't need as many of them to fill up the same amount of space. Tree Height Light coverage where you can still see the tree. Keep in mind how many stems and sprays you want to use. Heavy coverage where most of the tree is covered. Ornament Sizes 6.5 ft 70 pieces 100 pieces 4-10 in 7.5 ft 105 pieces 135 pieces 4-10 in 9-10 ft 180 pieces 215 pieces 4-10 in How many sprays/stems do I need to decorate ALL SIDES of my tree? Feel free to mix and match. The below are estimated totals depending on your tree size. You may decide you want to use more ornaments in place of stems and sprays. Use what makes you happy. Tree Height Light coverage where you can still see the tree. Keep in mind how many ornaments you want to use. Heavy coverage where most of the tree is covered.  6.5 ft 35 pieces 50 pieces 7-48 in 7.5 ft 45 pieces 60 pieces 7-48 in 9-10 ft 60 pieces 75 pieces 7-48 in How many rolls of ribbon do you I need to decorate my ENTIRE tree? The amount of ribbon depends on the tree's width and your technique. It also depends on if you want enough ribbon to make a bow as a tree topper, or if you are only wanting to weave the ribbon throughout your tree. The guide below is intended to help you have enough ribbon to weave throughout your tree. We suggest starting with 3 yards of ribbon for every foot of tree. For example, you will need around 22.5 yards for a standard Christmas tree. Adjust the length based on whether you want streamers and if you are planning to tuck the ribbon into the tree versus allowing it to cascade down the tree. Tree Height Ribbon Length 6.5 ft 19.5 yards 7.5 ft 22.5 yards 9-10 ft 27-30 yards

Just because the weather outside is frightful doesn’t mean you have to give up on your green thumb. Many herbs do well indoors as long as they are given enough light. A bright kitchen window or sunny southern exposure will work just fine. Keep them lightly watered and trim often for vigorous growth. Rosemary Nothing says Christmas like that woodsy, piney, Christmas tree scent, and the herb Rosemary is an excellent substitute! From trailing forms to upright shrubs that can actually be pruned into a cone, like a fir or spruce, Rosemary has the look and smell we so love! Perfectly hardy and happy outdoors, it is still nice to bring one in for the holidays! Thyme Thyme is a low-growing savory herb from the Mediterranean, and they can benefit from being grown in a container indoors, especially during our wet winters. For an extra dash of class, try silver thyme, or gold-variegated lemon thyme, which is savory but also sweet and fruity! Sage Sage is a classic kitchen herb, but it goes dormant if left out in winter. Those who desire sage for winter cooking will probably have to grow it indoors. Variegated forms offer beautiful colors on their leaves, with the same wonderful flavor. Parsley Parsley is a culinary favorite for all seasons, and it can be grown outdoors, or indoors in a sunny window in winter. Most food dishes are prepared with Italian flat parsley, but growing curly parsley can impart the same flavors while giving extra pizzazz, both on the windowsill and as a garnish for your favorite dishes. When applying fresh herbs to your recipes a good rule of thumb is 3/1. If your recipe calls for 1 tsp of dried thyme use 3 tsp of fresh.

-Want to enjoy the mums you purchased this fall again next year? You can! After their flowering season this year, cut them back far enough to remove all the faded flowers, (about 1/4 their height) and plant them in the landscape. -Check your yard for Sod Webworms, hundreds of moths ready to destroy your yard. We have a product to combat; come see us. -Plant hardy trees, shrubs, ground covers and vines. -Plant spring flowering bulbs (except for tulips & hyacinths, which must be refrigerated and planted in late December/early January). -Watch azaleas for lace bugs. Control with a horticultural oil spray or one of our recommended products. -Build a compost pile. Leaves, grass, and remains from a veggie garden are great components. -Plant cool season annuals. Pansies are a great choice now that night-time temps will hopefully stay around 65 degrees.  - Clean leaves up in and around roses to remove any possibility of diseased leaves staying over winter and causing black spot next year. - Yellowing herbaceous perennials should be trimmed back now. As leaves deteriorate, the removal is important to maintaining overall vigor of the plant. - As cold weather arrives, be sure to keep your bird feeders full of seed. Local birds will appreciate a free meal. Keep in mind, birds love berries from holly, winter berries, crab apples, beauty berry and many other shrubs. You may want to snip some now for winter decorations and keep in a sheltered area before they disappear. -If you have not aerated your lawn, do so now. Aerating your lawn pulls plugs out of the ground and allows water, and fertilizer to reach roots easily. If you dig out a plug of your lawn and find you have an inch of dead matter between the roots and blades of grass, you should aerate your lawn. As cold arrives start to reduce the height of your lawn mower and shorten your grass in preparation for winter. -Continue to rake and discard leaves as they fall. If you have the ability to shred them or mow them and bag them, do so before adding them to your compost bin. If they are diseased, get rid of them! -Install pond netting over your garden ponds to stop leaves from floating and eventually sinking to the bottom of the pond causing problems down the road. If you have fish 5-6" long, be sure you add a water aerator which pumps bubbles into your pond for the winter. Fish this size and larger need constant oxygen when pumps are shut down for winter. -Take time to enjoy the season, stop and look around you or take a stroll through a park. Mother Nature offers some incredible picturesque selfies this time of the year. Enjoy them before they are gone. The world moves way to fast and we all need time to slow down and enjoy the moment.

Camellias are one of the most popular blooming evergreens in the Southeast US, and one of our favorite winter bloomers. There are many varieties to choose from to bring showy winter interest. Camellia japonica, commonly called Camellia, is a slow upright grower with medium to large flowers that open from mid to late winter. Camellias grow best in shade to part sun, morning sun being better for them than afternoon sun. Other than the sun/shade requirements, the MOST IMPORTANT ingredient to be successful with camellias is your soil conditions. Camellias require rich, well-drained soil with an acid pH. Rich refers to soil with organic matter like mulch, compost, peat, etc present or added at the time of planting. Well-drained is simply a raised or sloped location so the below ground soil does not stay excessively wet after irrigating or rainfall. Acid pH means the pH level of the soil is below 7 (5.5 to 6.5 is best). The best way to find out your soils pH is to have a soil test done by LSU. We have the free kits at our store; you mail it back to the AgCenter with $10, and they will send your results back. With these three ingredients in place, Camellias will grow a strong root system and in turn will perform well in your landscape for many years. Tip: Now through early spring is the best time to plant Camellias. The more time these plants have to get established before their first summer the better. Here are a list of our Top 5 Camellia Picks! We have these and many more at the nursey, so come stroll and select your winter bloomers! Shishi Gashira Camellia A versatile performer displaying profuse, hot pink, semi-double blooms with golden yellow stamens in the center and glossy, dark green evergreen foliage. Flowers are perfect for cutting. Excellent choice for a colorful low hedge, espalier or high profile groundcover. The flowers bloom in fall/winter and this plant is an LSU SuperPlant! It’s a dwarf shrub, maturing to 4’ x 4’, and can take sun. Also try the White Shishi Camellia with the same characteristics boasting white blooms. Leslie Ann Camellia This informal bloom is still stunning with its white/blush majority and its frilly pink edges. It’s an upright shrub with the lustrous evergreen foliage Camellias are known for. The semi-double blooms cover the plant in abundance from mid-Fall through winter. It matures to about 10’ x 10’ in partial sun/shade. Tama Vino Camellia This long-blooming and well branched shrub is covered with beautiful wine-red blooms (hence the name) that develop broad white borders. It’s a gorgeous bloomer for the holiday season- resembling a peppermint. Its foliage stays glossy evergreen, and its flowers are great for cutting- maybe even adding to go along with your holiday gift tags! It matures to 5’x7’ in partial sun/shade. Jacks Camellia If you are looking for a camellia to stop you in your tracks, you’ve found it. Jacks is simply stunning in bloom. The large, pink double blooms cover the upright, rounded shrub and are so ornate they don’t look real! The flowers are non-stop all winter when the rest of your landscape seems to be in hibernation. It matures to 8’ x 5’ in partial sun/shade. Yuletide Camellia Single, brilliant, fiery red blooms centered with bright yellow stamens make this a beautiful addition to the winter garden. Blossoms stand out in high contrast against glossy, dark green evergreen foliage. Excellent choice for a colorful hedge or screen, espalier, and border shrub. As its name suggests, it blooms right in time for the holiday foot traffic to your home! It matures to 6’ x 4’ in partial sun/shade.